Day of the Dead 2024 in Mazatlán

Day of the Dead in Mazatlán has been our favorite holiday for over a decade. It is important to many families: cleaning and celebrating at loved one’s graves, making altars to remember our ancestors and friends, visiting the Angela Peralta Theater, and walking in the callejoneada or alley parade. We were a bit worried as right during Day of the Dead we had the transition to our new mayor and city council, so we were not sure who would be directing CULTURA Mazatlán. Fortunately, it’s again our beloved and enormously talented Raul Rico González and his terrific team.

  • This year the crew of the CMA (Centro Municipal de Artes) and CULTURA put together the 150th anniversary of our beloved Angela Peralta Theater with a magnificent homage.
  • We all marveled at the gorgeous colored streamers hanging over Calle Venus, “Calle de los Espíritus” as it’s known among locals, and I tried to capture that magic in my photos.
  • Inside the Angela Peralta Theater, in addition to the ballet and modern dance, the opera, and incredible costumes, we were privileged to view six nine-foot-tall EDIBLE CATRINAS by Luis Antonio Rios (Momo)! The opening of this exposition is tonight, Monday, 4 November, at 7pm in Galería Rubio, so be sure to go check them out this week.
  • Finally, I believe everyone fell in love with the light-up alebrijes or fantastical creatures that ended the alley parade. They were absolutely breathtaking!

You, dear reader, may have noticed that I have not written here since February 5th of this year. Did you miss me? In December Greg and I traveled to Phoenix to help a friend with cancer. She had five cats, and I have slight allergies. Sadly I soon had bronchitis and then pneumonia. Returning home in early January, my doctor gave me a CT scan (thank you, dear cats!) and found what he said was lung cancer! I have never smoked, ever; still common, he told me. On Feb 28th a terrific surgeon removed the largest lobe of my lungs, followed by chemo and targeted therapy. While I was able to photograph the total solar eclipse on April 8th, Day of the Dead is the first time in nine months I’ve had enough energy to even consider attending an event, photographing it, editing the photographs, and writing a blog post. I trust you’ll enjoy it. It’s great to be getting back (I still tire very easily; but I’m good!). I promised Greg I’d only be out two hours, and fortunately I was able to keep my word.

ALTAR TO OUR FRIEND JORGE MEDINA
We left home at 6:30 pm to get to Casa del Caracol by 7 to join family and my book club members at the altar in memory of Jorge Medina, our dear friend and colleague. We worked with Jorge for over 20 years on the Chicken Breakfast and loved him dearly. He died from cancer, so the fact that my diagnosis came at the same time as his passing was personally poignant.

CRÓNICAS DEL TEATRO
We then headed back to the Plazuela and entered the theater at 7:30. This year, the performance was entitled “Crónicas del Teatro” or “History of the Theater.” Hundreds of our Municipal Arts Center students and professionals—dancers, singers, musicians, scenographers, artists, make up and costumers, audio-visual, choreographers, and theater arts made this always-stellar evening possible! I swear it becomes more popular every year! The entrance was also decorated, and the folkloric ballet performed in the kiosk of the Machado, while a percussion ensemble regaled revelers on Calle Niños Heroes. By far my favorite events in the theater were the six huge edible catrinas and the homage to LA MAYA, the famous mazatleca boxer. I read a book on this incredible woman, way ahead of her time, and I was delighted to witness this tribute to her! Click on any image to enlarge it or view a slideshow.

CALLE VENUS / CALLE DE LOS ESPÍRITUS AND OUR GORGEOUS CENTRO HISTÓRICO
Departing the theater we heard the fireworks indicating that the callejoneada was about to begin. I’d promised not to do the three laps front to back of the entire parade as I usually do, so we left the Plazuela out the other side and attempted to go around the parade. Before returning to the car, however, I was hoping to get a photograph of someone dressed as a catrina under the ribbons on Calle Venus. By the time we arrived, the crowds had packed the street. As always, so many of our neighbors and visitors outdid themselves with their costuming and makeup! My favorite were the Xoloitzcuintles (iconic Day of the Dead dogs, painted as skeletons, of course), the young women, the old women, and the families and kids. I guess that’s maybe… everybody? Oops. We are so blessed to live here and be able to enjoy this tradition!

LA CALLEJONEADA
As I was getting waylaid by all the beautiful spectators along Calle de los Espíritus and the way getting there, suddenly the parade appeared! We had no choice but to watch it! This year’s catrina was In.Cre.Di.Ble. Some years they make her just too large and garish. This time she’s still as wide as the alley, and has a lot going on, but not quite so distracting as in some years. I loved photographing the performers as they marched and danced under the streamers. I especially loved the reflections of the colored streamers in the brass instruments!

I trust you have enjoyed viewing some of the pics. I sincerely hope you were able to participate in the festivities. Congratulations to Raul and the entire Cultura Mazatlán and CMA teams, as well as the various dance, art, and music schools involved. ¡Qué lindo es todo lo que hay en Mazatlán!

Alebrijes in Mazatlán!

Fernando Barraza with one of the group’s colibries or hummingbirds

Before the callejoneada (alley crawl or parade) on Wednesday night at 8, be sure to visit the Art Museum to see a beautiful display of cartonería — papier maché catrinas, hummingbirds (messengers between the spirit world and humanity) and alebrijes—those magical, fantastical, enormously colorful and detailed animal creatures from Oaxaca. These gorgeously bright creations will be hanging from that huge tree in the central courtyard of the Art Museum, as well as adorning an altar to departed artists, starting at 7pm Wednesday November 1, 2023. Then on Thursday, November 2, they will move into one of the museum’s galleries, with an inauguration at 4pm.

These beautiful handmade works are the product of a class taught by Maestro José Guzmán. He had 10-12 students over two months in his workshop at the Art Museum, and each student created at least three works and some people up to five or six. I can’t wait to see them illuminated and displayed!

Also at the Art Museum October 30 – November 1, 2023 is the Festival of Horror in the Arts. It is part of the Sinaloa Cultural Festival.

Festival of Horror in the Arts organizers invite you to join them!

The Art Museum, its altar and alebrije display is #7 on the Callejoneada for Day of the Dead map.

Get to a Coronation!

Mazatlán is said to be the world’s third biggest Carnaval, spanning over a week of festivities. Each year we attend at least one of the four coronations. It’s so worth it! The pomp and circumstance, the dancing, the music. The performances involved in a coronation are comprised of hundreds of talented local young people and professionals, from visual artists, sculptors, costumers, stage designers, choreographers, musicians and dancers.

Each coronation of course involves the crowning of royalty, and it also pays homage to the sovereigns celebrating their 25-year (this year Alma Loaiza) and 50-year (Lupita Elorriaga) anniversaries. Plus, of course, there are fireworks. Click on any photo to enlarge it or view a slideshow.

This year’s Queen of the Floral Games is Uma I. She was crowned by the winner of the Poetry Ward, Sandra Lorenzano. In 20 years of coronations I have never seen a queen struggle as Uma did to ascend the steps to her throne. Her gorgeous gown, designed by Sodelva García and embroidered with laurel leaves, must have weighed a ton!

The coronation itself is preceded by entertainment by local dancers and musicians, and followed by a concert. Friday night’s concert theme was “Rock You,” headlined by Gloria Gaynor. At 79 years old she still belts out a tune, thanks, of course, to her back-up singers. She was impressive! The crowd sang along and danced at their seats. Héctor Ortiz and Quintero Britania were the warm-up acts. The audience ate it up, dancing and waving their lit cell phones.

You will need to purchase tickets to the coronations. There are seats on the field of the stadium, and cheaper seats in the stands. People tend to dress nicely, and a coat is recommended if it’s chilly or damp. Binoculars may also be worth taking.

Lighting the Angela Peralta on Fire!

One of the best musical, dance, and theatrical events of the year in Mazatlán occurs the weekend before Carnaval begins—the “Evening of the Arts.” The event makes the sold-out crowd that fills our historic Angela Peralta Theater beam with pride and delight at their good fortune to live here.

Saturday night February 11, 2023, talented Mazatlecos lit the stage of the Angela Peralta Theater on fire. In a program entitled “Pagan Love,” the night was directed by local legend, Maestro Enrique Patrón de Rueda—born, bred, and still residing right here in our port. The Maestro is Artistic Director of the Mexican National Opera Company, of the opera for the Mexico City Philharmonic, and of the Sinaloan Cultural Festival. Maestro Enrique was trained in the Mexican National Conservatory of Music, London Opera Center, the Royal Academy of Music, and Morley College. His conducting style is filled with passion and a heavy expression of emotion, as you can see in the photos below. Click on any photo to enlarge it or view a slideshow.

The Amor Pagano program united Mexico’s National Dance Company, founded in 1963 and the oldest in Mexico; Mazatlán’s Ballet Company, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary; Brújula Dynamic Flamenco from Michoacán; and the Camerata Mazatlán, founded in 2006.

The second Mazatlecan showcased Saturday night was Sarah Holcombe, beautiful and talented mezzosoprano, who sang the first half of the evening’s program: “Amor Brujo” by Manuel de Falla. Born here in our port, Sarah began her opera studies in our local School of Opera under another local legend, Maestra Martha Félix, in 2007. She further developed her skills in the Angela Peralta Chorus and the Gullermo Sarabia Chorus, demonstrating the high caliber of musical education available to local youth.

Director of our Municipal School of Classical Ballet, Maestra Zoila Fernández is Mazatleca by adoption and choice, though she was born and educated in Cuba. Maestra Zoila teaches students as young as seven years old in our local ballet school and sees many through to professional careers with internationally renowned companies throughout the Americas and Europe. She choreographed the program on Saturday night, including the first act’s Amor Brujo and the final act, Carmen by George Bizet. The flamenco portion of the evening’s dance was choreographed by Nashieli Buelna, another Sinaloan talent shining brightly this Evening of the Arts.

The four key dancers from the National Ballet who starred in Carmen were Ana Elisa Mena Chávez as Carmen; Argenis Montalvo as Don José; Roberto Rodríguez as Escamillo; and Martha Mariana Romero Iribe as Destiny. Their performances were breathtaking—incredible strength, flexibility and grace reminded the audience of the unbelievably perfect beauty of a healthy body. The dancers from our Mazatlán Ballet Company and the 43 talented musicians of our Camerata Mazatlán did an outstanding job, making for an incredible night.

The ostensible reason for this incredible night’s entertainment was to celebrate the winner of the Mazatlán Prize for Literature. This year the award went to David Toscana, from Monterey, for his powerful novel entitled, “The Weight of Living on Earth” (El Peso de Vivir en la Tierra).

Many of our resident foreigners and visiting international tourists love Mazatlán for its miles of beaches, her unbelievable sunsets, the warmth and joy of her people, and our wonderful seafood. Yet another reason to love Mazatlán is for the richness and affordability of her cultural arts scene. If you have not availed yourself of CULTURA’s offerings, you are definitely losing out!

Sponsor a Tarámari Child This Christmas

Indigenous people around the world have been marginalized for centuries, and México is sadly no exception. Please join me this holiday season to make a difference in the life of a native child by helping Tarámari schoolchildren here in Sinaloa. These kids live in unbelievably poor families, in isolated communities, and make herculean efforts to get to school. Their families often need them at home, so sticking with an education takes enormous the hard work and commitment of the entire family, plus a bit of luck.

We will work with the the Sinaloan Taramari Collective to support Tarámari children living right here in our state of Sinaloa. There are three terrific ways you can help:

1. Let us know you want to sponsor a child. We’ll get you the child’s name, gender, age and town of residence. You fill a backpack for them as you wish: you might include new toys, school or art supplies, and perhaps a set of clothing for your godchild. Please turn the backpack in by December 15th.

2. Donate money to the Colectivo Tarámari Sinaloense, and they will share with you a ticket that proves your donation went to buy products for the children. In the photo below are card numbers for you to transfer money to (you can pay at any OXXO if you don’t have a local bank account). The leader, Hortensia López Gaxiola, is well-known and trusted nationally for her social activism.

3. Donate non-perishable food items, basic food supplies. Local Mazatlán coordinator, Angela Mar Camacho, will pick them up.

Please pass the word around and thank you for your help. Let’s show these kids that Mazatlán’s foreign community supports them! ❤❤❤

Ho, ho, ho!!! Merry Christmas! Happy Hanukkah! Heri za Kwanzaa! Blessed New Year!