Lucha Libre Project

It’s already been nine months since I started this new photographic project. The learning curve has been steep! I’ve gained many friends and have achieved a basic understanding of a whole new world. Initially, I gave myself three years to complete this project, but not that I know the depth and complexity of this lucha libre world, it will no doubt take me longer.

King Trueno Jr makes a leap of faith onto the floor outside the ring,
in an attempt to crush his rivals Gargola, Tirano and Relámpago Jr.

Nearly every weekend I now attend a fight. I hate fighting; I am a lifelong mediator. But the lucha libre community is one of the most loving, tight, supportive, and joyous groups I’ve had the pleasure of working with. This is a multigenerational, family affair. I have grown to love foul-mouthed, hysterical grandmas engaging in their weekly catharsis from the stress of daily life; quite a few of the kids now hop into my lap or plead for me to take their photo; and I’m connecting the who’s who in these large, extended Mazatleco families. After three early injuries, I now have a better sense of the rhythm of the fights and can predict movements a bit better, though looking through a telephoto lens does not provide peripheral vision!! This project has been a blessing so far. Click on any photo to enlarge it or view a slideshow.

The luchadores are athletes, first and foremost. Their muscles are real, their pain is real, their blood is real, as are their injuries. Yes, they slap the mat as they land a fall or a jump. Some may call that fake. The loud sound does add to the amazement, but the slap also helps break the fall and spreads out the impact of the crash. Yes, the rudos (heels) sort of catch the técnicos (good guys) to break their fall from flight, but without that reality we would not have their flying to delight us.

I am happy to say that I am finally learning who is who in our local lucha libre community. Meeting them in street clothes vs. masked and suited up, some of them with multiple characters, it’s been difficult for my brain-damaged memory to retain. Add to that the fact that they change outfits regularly, and even change masks—at least the colors or design details. Not to mention some of these warriors lose their masks and become unmasked, or vice-versa. Soon I will head to Japan to interview and hopefully photograph fighters there who have studied here in Mexico.

Last night was incredible. Soooooo much aerial work! The children had a field day, as did the adults. The most touching moment of the evening came after the fourth and final match. Antrax, the gargantuan co-founder of Project Lucha, lost his father on Saturday. And on Sunday he showed his professionalism and showed up for the main fight against Culiacán! My respect. I would never be able to show up for work the day after a parent died. He knelt in tribute to his father, as did his arch-rival, the Perro de Culiacán. The whole community joined him in his grief, and what better gift is there than to have friends like that?

Anthrax praying for his father

Defending a Lucha Libre Championship

Lightweight champion Prince Astaroth with Ref Shaggy and Trainer Antrax

Sunday night, November 26th, I learned how a luchador (lucha libre wrestler) defends a championship title. A couple of weeks ago, I interviewed Prince Astaroth, a local luchador who works with Project Lucha out of Arena Mazatlán/Wrestlers’ Gym in Colonia Juárez. He told me he his proudest moment was winning his championship belt in the ligero or lightweight class.

A week or so later I had the privilege of taking his portrait, and Prince Astaroth proudly brought his championship belt along for the photo session. Astaroth is a demon, and no, we did not actually light Devil’s Cave on fire. Click on any photo to enlarge it or view a slideshow.

Imagine my surprise, then, when the announcement for the following week’s Sunday evening fight was for him to defend that title! His challenger would be Hijo del Relámpago (son of Relámpago), a member of a local familia luchística (luchador family or dynasty). His father is Relámpago (Lightning Bolt), who is his trainer, and his brother is Relámpago Junior.

As with any match, it began with grand entrances (at Arena Mazatlán the wrestlers come downstairs into the ring area). Prince Astaroth of course entered proudly with his championship belt in hand. Once his contender had also entered the ring, the referee was introduced. Tonight’s ref would be the enormously popular rudo (heel or “bad guy”), Shaggy. A first for me, however, was that next Marcelo, the administrator of the local branch of the National Lucha Libre Wrestling Association entered the ring. I had not witnessed that before. His job, he told me, was to supervise that this championship match would be clean, fair, and orderly.

The match then proceeded for the usual three rounds, with the winner of each round pinning the loser for a count of three. The belt would go to the winner of two out of three. It was an enormously physical match, with both fighters flying out of the ring multiple times. There were flying kicks to the head and mat-bound kicks to the groin.

Both Prince Astaroth and Hijo del Relámpago are incredible flyers and fighters. Below is a sequence of three photos showing the defending champion leaping from the turnbuckle or top rope onto his challenger.

The highlight of the fight was Prince Astaroth setting up a wooden door against a chair. Once he’d subdued Hijo del Relámpago, he once again climbed up to the turnbuckle and lept down on top of his opponent. His target was conscious enough to be able to roll out of the line of Astaroth’s landing, and the champ crashed through the door, breaking the chair. Hijo del Relámpago then quickly got up to switch places and pin the champion, as shown in the sequence of seven photos below.

In the end, Prince Astaroth was declared victorious and retained his championship belt. Both fighters were completely exhausted; the defending champ had to be held up to be declared victor. 

Prince Astaroth retains the lightweight title.

The trainers for each of the two wrestlers were ringside, and what was particularly interesting is they appeared to hate one another.  They wrestled each other on the floor several times. Prince Astaroth’s traine, Antrax,r threw punches and attacked both Hijo del Relámpago and his trainer, Relámpago. The ref, Shaggy, in true form, failed to intervene in time to prevent the illegal fights, and he was angry at Astaroth throughout the match. Even after Prince Astaroth won and was declared to retain his championship, he joined forces with his trainer in classic rudo form to kick and roll the losing Hijo del Relámpago out of the ring, much to the consternation of his father (pointing on the left of the third photo below).

Many Sundays at 7:00 p.m. there are lucha libre matches in Arena Mazatlán. Please note that this pin will take you right to the arena, Wrestler’s gym, on José Maria Pino Suarez street. The next fight night will be December 3rd: announcement below. Entrance costs $80 pesos/person. Lucha libre is a Mexican tradition and cultural heritage with a lot of richness and complexity. Originally imported from Mexican-Americans in the USA in the 1930s, Mexico has made professional wrestling its own and even exported it to Japan and beyond.

You are cordially invited to the next fight on Sunday December 3rd. The fight’s
announced for 7:00 p.m., and usually starts about 8:00 p.m.

You will find all ages at the matches; the children play in the ring between matches and have the time of their lives. Everyone shouts and laughs, and only hard-core fans want to sit in the front row (wrestlers frequently fly out of the ring at those seats). Lucha libre is a whole lot of campy fun. You can buy ceviche, snacks, soda and drinks, or bring your own beer. If you love a roaring good, family-friendly time, follow Project Lucha on Facebook. They announce all the matches early in the week. Quite a few times a year there are matches at Cancha German Evers. Those will usually be announced on the Project Lucha page.

Fans on the far side of the ring last Sunday included Sandra and her granddaughters, as well as a young masked, pajama-clad boy with his Dad. There is LOTS of audience participation!

I hope to see you at a match soon! Please help us support these wrestlers who work out every single day and practice tirelessly, in the hopes of realizing their dreams and with the commitment to stay in shape and entertain.

Figaro Comes to Mazatlán!

Figaro and Susanna: Esteban Baltazar (Mexican baritone) and Emma Robertson (US American soprano)

Yes, the world’s best-loved opera, the comical farce or opera buffa “The Marriage of Figaro,” has come to modern-day Mazatlán! Judging by the audience’s laughter, yells of “bravo,” and long applause, the debut of this international version is a complete hit with local audiences. There will be another production Sunday, November 19 at 7 pm, so do not miss it!

Ragnar Conde and Abdiel Vázquez greet one another on stage

“Las Bodas de Figaro” debuted in the Angela Peralta Theater on Friday night, 17 November. Scenic direction is by Ragnar Conde, and musical direction is by Abdiel Vázquez (Mexican residing in New York). The production takes place in a local hotel, and the stars are the hotel owners and staff. The voices and acting rise to the dizzying pace of the very enjoyable opera, and our local musicians from the Camerata Mazatlán demonstrate the incredible value of having such a terrific arts school in our port. Members of the Angela Peralta Chorus also make our city proud. Click on any image to enlarge it or view a slideshow.

This opera in four acts with two intermissions will keep you laughing and surprise you at every turn. You’ll find yourself hating on the Count (Andrés Asencio, Peruvian baritone), fed up with the injustices of social class differences, empathizing with the poor women, and, in the end, cheering their resourcefulness. The performance will have you reeling from lying, scheming, running, pulling, hiding, eavesdropping, infidelity, friendship, forgiveness, love, and joy.

Esteban Baltazar (Mexican bass-baritone), who sings and acts in the role of Figaro, says “This is an opera written in the 1700s, and in 2023 we have the same problems as we did back then! And we will probably continue having them till 3040.” 

Emma Robertson, who plays Susanna, Figaro’s fiancée (US American soprano), tells us, “The adaptation is very true to the original. Placing the opera in a modern-day hotel provides us with the large spaces needed as well as the clear roles and status. The count and countess own the hotel and interact with their staff. These are themes that repeat themselves in every country and across time.”

Performers in this scenically contemporized edition of the opera include:

  • Figaro, the hotel manager (traditional role of the count’s personal valet): Esteban Baltazar, Mexican bass-baritone
  • Susanna, director of the hotel spa (role of the countess’ maid) and Figaro’s beloved, soprano: Emma Robertson, from Georgia
  • Count Almaviva, owner of the hotel (the filanderer who repeatedly tries to bed Susanna): Andrés Asencio, Peruvian baritone
  • Countess Rosina Almaviva: Daniela Yurrita, soprano from Guatemala
  • Don Curzio: Luis Cornejo, Mexican tenor
  • Cherubino (traditionally the court page): Rose Ferreiro,  Mexican mezzosoprano
  • Dr. Bartolo, a medical doctor and lawyer: Juan Carlos Villalobos, Mexican tenor
  • Marcelina, Doctor Bartolo’s housekeeper: mezzosoprano Rebecca de Almeida from Brasil
  • Barbarina: Hannah Hall
  • The gardener: Rodolfo Ituarte

The set was masterfully designed and constructed, with movable pillars allowing for the singers to hide and eavesdrop in many different places. It also allowed the audience to feel that the show was taking place in a hotel right here in Mazatlán—the hotel lobby, oceanside pool area, the ballroom, a suite, etc. Pedro Pazarán was in charge of scenery and lighting, while Chava Banuva handled the projection. The downside for me as a photographer is that projected scenery is incredibly difficult to photograph (requiring low speed, while the actors are moving on stage), and the projected light lands on the actors’ skin and clothing, flooding them with shapes and colors. 

“The Marriage of Figaro” was composed in 1786 by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart with an Italian libretto by Lorenzo Da Ponte. While the opera is based in Seville, a sequel to the “Barber of Seville,” it is sung in Italian. 

Tickets for Sunday cost between $250 to $400 pesos and can be purchased in the Angela Peralta Theater box office, in Cultura’s online box office, or via WhatsApp to 669-120-0020.

Alebrijes in Mazatlán!

Fernando Barraza with one of the group’s colibries or hummingbirds

Before the callejoneada (alley crawl or parade) on Wednesday night at 8, be sure to visit the Art Museum to see a beautiful display of cartonería — papier maché catrinas, hummingbirds (messengers between the spirit world and humanity) and alebrijes—those magical, fantastical, enormously colorful and detailed animal creatures from Oaxaca. These gorgeously bright creations will be hanging from that huge tree in the central courtyard of the Art Museum, as well as adorning an altar to departed artists, starting at 7pm Wednesday November 1, 2023. Then on Thursday, November 2, they will move into one of the museum’s galleries, with an inauguration at 4pm.

These beautiful handmade works are the product of a class taught by Maestro José Guzmán. He had 10-12 students over two months in his workshop at the Art Museum, and each student created at least three works and some people up to five or six. I can’t wait to see them illuminated and displayed!

Also at the Art Museum October 30 – November 1, 2023 is the Festival of Horror in the Arts. It is part of the Sinaloa Cultural Festival.

Festival of Horror in the Arts organizers invite you to join them!

The Art Museum, its altar and alebrije display is #7 on the Callejoneada for Day of the Dead map.

Eyes of the Fish Market

Mazatlecos are blessed with fresh fish and seafood. I love going to the fish markets, watching the fishermen unload their catch, and watching the sales people descale and filet the day’s offerings.

A week or so ago my photographer girlfriend Darlene and I spent a morning at the Embarcadero. I didn’t make a conscious decision to focus on eyes, but that is what emerged from my lens that morning; with a photo or two for context thrown in for good measure. I hope you enjoy!

Click on any photo to enlarge it or view a slideshow. Please let me know which is your favorite pic!

Thanks, Darlene, for joining me! And to all who graciously smiled and posed for the photos! Mazatlecos rock.

Any of my photos are available as prints. Just email me at thrudiseyes@gmail.com or WhatsApp to +52-669-122-8962 with the photo, size and backing (paper, canvas, etc) you would like a price on. You can follow my photography on Facebook or Instagram, or via my webpage at www.ThruDisEyes.com. Thanks!