It’s already been nine months since I started this new photographic project. The learning curve has been steep! I’ve gained many friends and have achieved a basic understanding of a whole new world. Initially, I gave myself three years to complete this project, but not that I know the depth and complexity of this lucha libre world, it will no doubt take me longer.
King Trueno Jr makes a leap of faith onto the floor outside the ring, in an attempt to crush his rivals Gargola, Tirano and Relámpago Jr.
Nearly every weekend I now attend a fight. I hate fighting; I am a lifelong mediator. But the lucha libre community is one of the most loving, tight, supportive, and joyous groups I’ve had the pleasure of working with. This is a multigenerational, family affair. I have grown to love foul-mouthed, hysterical grandmas engaging in their weekly catharsis from the stress of daily life; quite a few of the kids now hop into my lap or plead for me to take their photo; and I’m connecting the who’s who in these large, extended Mazatleco families. After three early injuries, I now have a better sense of the rhythm of the fights and can predict movements a bit better, though looking through a telephoto lens does not provide peripheral vision!! This project has been a blessing so far. Click on any photo to enlarge it or view a slideshow.
Ninja Blanco jumping in for a kickDestello closeupMexican Pacific Pair Championship Belts were won last night. Shaggy, the referee, attacks one of the fighters!Destello is pushed off by Gárgola.Prince Astaroth in his new incarnation as a good guy TécnicoRelámpago Jr saults from the ring.Super Calo Jr, one of my favorites.When these giants land on the mat it’s like an earthquake!
The luchadores are athletes, first and foremost. Their muscles are real, their pain is real, their blood is real, as are their injuries. Yes, they slap the mat as they land a fall or a jump. Some may call that fake. The loud sound does add to the amazement, but the slap also helps break the fall and spreads out the impact of the crash. Yes, the rudos (heels) sort of catch the técnicos (good guys) to break their fall from flight, but without that reality we would not have their flying to delight us.
I am happy to say that I am finally learning who is who in our local lucha libre community. Meeting them in street clothes vs. masked and suited up, some of them with multiple characters, it’s been difficult for my brain-damaged memory to retain. Add to that the fact that they change outfits regularly, and even change masks—at least the colors or design details. Not to mention some of these warriors lose their masks and become unmasked, or vice-versa. Soon I will head to Japan to interview and hopefully photograph fighters there who have studied here in Mexico.
Last night was incredible. Soooooo much aerial work! The children had a field day, as did the adults. The most touching moment of the evening came after the fourth and final match. Antrax, the gargantuan co-founder of Project Lucha, lost his father on Saturday. And on Sunday he showed his professionalism and showed up for the main fight against Culiacán! My respect. I would never be able to show up for work the day after a parent died. He knelt in tribute to his father, as did his arch-rival, the Perro de Culiacán. The whole community joined him in his grief, and what better gift is there than to have friends like that?
Lightweight champion Prince Astaroth with Ref Shaggy and Trainer Antrax
Sunday night, November 26th, I learned how a luchador (lucha libre wrestler) defends a championship title. A couple of weeks ago, I interviewed Prince Astaroth, a local luchador who works with Project Lucha out of Arena Mazatlán/Wrestlers’ Gym in Colonia Juárez. He told me he his proudest moment was winning his championship belt in the ligero or lightweight class.
A week or so later I had the privilege of taking his portrait, and Prince Astaroth proudly brought his championship belt along for the photo session. Astaroth is a demon, and no, we did not actually light Devil’s Cave on fire. Click on any photo to enlarge it or view a slideshow.
Portrait of Prince Astaroth with his swordPrince Astaroth jumping into the fire at Devil’s CaveWatch out for this incendiary demon!Astaroth does seem to respect his ancestorsPrince Astaroth shoots fire at my camera during a portrait session
Imagine my surprise, then, when the announcement for the following week’s Sunday evening fight was for him to defend that title! His challenger would be Hijo del Relámpago (son of Relámpago), a member of a local familia luchística (luchador family or dynasty). His father is Relámpago (Lightning Bolt), who is his trainer, and his brother is Relámpago Junior.
As with any match, it began with grand entrances (at Arena Mazatlán the wrestlers come downstairs into the ring area). Prince Astaroth of course entered proudly with his championship belt in hand. Once his contender had also entered the ring, the referee was introduced. Tonight’s ref would be the enormously popular rudo (heel or “bad guy”), Shaggy. A first for me, however, was that next Marcelo, the administrator of the local branch of the National Lucha Libre Wrestling Association entered the ring. I had not witnessed that before. His job, he told me, was to supervise that this championship match would be clean, fair, and orderly.
Prince Astaroth, the defending lightweight championPosing before the match beganThe championship beltMarcelo the Wrestlling Association administrator
The match then proceeded for the usual three rounds, with the winner of each round pinning the loser for a count of three. The belt would go to the winner of two out of three. It was an enormously physical match, with both fighters flying out of the ring multiple times. There were flying kicks to the head and mat-bound kicks to the groin.
Prince Astaroth in red, Hijo del Relámpago in whitePrince Astaroth in red, Hijo del Relámpago in whitePrince Astaroth in red, Hijo del Relámpago in white
Both Prince Astaroth and Hijo del Relámpago are incredible flyers and fighters. Below is a sequence of three photos showing the defending champion leaping from the turnbuckle or top rope onto his challenger.
Astaroth jumps from the turnbuckleJumping down onto Hijo del RelámpagoAlmost making contact with the challenger on the floor
The highlight of the fight was Prince Astaroth setting up a wooden door against a chair. Once he’d subdued Hijo del Relámpago, he once again climbed up to the turnbuckle and lept down on top of his opponent. His target was conscious enough to be able to roll out of the line of Astaroth’s landing, and the champ crashed through the door, breaking the chair. Hijo del Relámpago then quickly got up to switch places and pin the champion, as shown in the sequence of seven photos below.
Prince Astaroth above, Hijo del Relámpago lying on the door belowAstaroth jumps toward his challengerHijo del Relámpago rolls and Astaroth himself hits the wooden doorPrince Astaroth has broken both the wooden door and the plastic chairHe seems to be stunnedAstaroth seems dizzyHijo del Relámpago quickly seizes the moment and pins the champ
In the end, Prince Astaroth was declared victorious and retained his championship belt. Both fighters were completely exhausted; the defending champ had to be held up to be declared victor.
Prince Astaroth retains the lightweight title.
The trainers for each of the two wrestlers were ringside, and what was particularly interesting is they appeared to hate one another. They wrestled each other on the floor several times. Prince Astaroth’s traine, Antrax,r threw punches and attacked both Hijo del Relámpago and his trainer, Relámpago. The ref, Shaggy, in true form, failed to intervene in time to prevent the illegal fights, and he was angry at Astaroth throughout the match. Even after Prince Astaroth won and was declared to retain his championship, he joined forces with his trainer in classic rudo form to kick and roll the losing Hijo del Relámpago out of the ring, much to the consternation of his father (pointing on the left of the third photo below).
Team Astaroth kick and roll Hijo del Relámpago out of the ringTeam Astaroth kick the challenger onto the floor in true rudo/heel fashionRelámpago, the challenger’s trainer, angrily curses at Team Astaroth
Many Sundays at 7:00 p.m. there are lucha libre matches in Arena Mazatlán. Please note that this pin will take you right to the arena, Wrestler’s gym, on José Maria Pino Suarez street. The next fight night will be December 3rd: announcement below. Entrance costs $80 pesos/person. Lucha libre is a Mexican tradition and cultural heritage with a lot of richness and complexity. Originally imported from Mexican-Americans in the USA in the 1930s, Mexico has made professional wrestling its own and even exported it to Japan and beyond.
You are cordially invited to the next fight on Sunday December 3rd. The fight’s announced for 7:00 p.m., and usually starts about 8:00 p.m.
You will find all ages at the matches; the children play in the ring between matches and have the time of their lives. Everyone shouts and laughs, and only hard-core fans want to sit in the front row (wrestlers frequently fly out of the ring at those seats). Lucha libre is a whole lot of campy fun. You can buy ceviche, snacks, soda and drinks, or bring your own beer. If you love a roaring good, family-friendly time, follow Project Lucha on Facebook. They announce all the matches early in the week. Quite a few times a year there are matches at Cancha German Evers. Those will usually be announced on the Project Lucha page.
Fans on the far side of the ring last Sunday included Sandra and her granddaughters, as well as a young masked, pajama-clad boy with his Dad. There is LOTS of audience participation!
I hope to see you at a match soon! Please help us support these wrestlers who work out every single day and practice tirelessly, in the hopes of realizing their dreams and with the commitment to stay in shape and entertain.
Indigenous people around the world have been marginalized for centuries, and México is sadly no exception. Please join me this holiday season to make a difference in the life of a native child by helping Tarámari schoolchildren here in Sinaloa. These kids live in unbelievably poor families, in isolated communities, and make herculean efforts to get to school. Their families often need them at home, so sticking with an education takes enormous the hard work and commitment of the entire family, plus a bit of luck.
We will work with the the Sinaloan Taramari Collective to support Tarámari children living right here in our state of Sinaloa. There are three terrific ways you can help:
1. Let us know you want to sponsor a child. We’ll get you the child’s name, gender, age and town of residence. You fill a backpack for them as you wish: you might include new toys, school or art supplies, and perhaps a set of clothing for your godchild. Please turn the backpack in by December 15th.
2. Donate money to the Colectivo Tarámari Sinaloense, and they will share with you a ticket that proves your donation went to buy products for the children. In the photo below are card numbers for you to transfer money to (you can pay at any OXXO if you don’t have a local bank account). The leader, Hortensia López Gaxiola, is well-known and trusted nationally for her social activism.
3. Donate non-perishable food items, basic food supplies. Local Mazatlán coordinator, Angela Mar Camacho, will pick them up.
Please pass the word around and thank you for your help. Let’s show these kids that Mazatlán’s foreign community supports them!
Ho, ho, ho!!! Merry Christmas! Happy Hanukkah! Heri za Kwanzaa! Blessed New Year!
A couple of blue-footed boobies. They love to touch beaks; could it be a boobie kiss?
I recently had the enormous pleasure of spending two nights of rustic camping at an unbelievably gorgeous spot: Isla Isabel, Nayarit. It is a mini Galapagos three hours’ boat ride from San Blas, which is about a three hour drive south of Mazatlán. I went with a few biologists, an astronomer, an ornithologist and a few friends; eight people in all. The trip was incredible!
Watch till the end: a family of blue-footed boobies will greet you.
On the boat on the ride to the island we were able to jump into the Pacific with our snorkels and masks and swim with whale sharks! We were cautioned not to touch them, but mine came right up to me and stayed beside me, touching me, for a good 30 seconds while she ate from the plankton in the channel. Heaven on earth!!! Click on any photo to enlarge it or view a slideshow. All photos are available as prints; contact me privately and thank you for supporting my efforts!
Swimming with whale sharks
Also on the journey to the island we saw dozens of humpback whales, either courting, which is when you see the males hitting each other with their fins, or with their babies. While my long-held dream of catching one fully breaching went unfulfilled, I took many photos of them spewing and of that wonderful tail in the air pose.
Humpback whales with their babies
Arriving to the island I was struck by the clear blue water and the volcanic rock. The first thing we did after setting up our tents was put on our swim suits and jump into the “pozos,” naturally occurring swimming holes that surround the island. They were terrific! The waves crash into them keeping things fresh, and if you have a mask and snorkel you can see loads of fish, star fish, crabs, etc.
Swimming in the pozos or volcanic rock pools surrounding Isla Isabel
The island is well known for “Las Monas” or nearby rock outcroppings. We were able to snorkel around them from our boat. There are also a couple of nice sandy beaches.
The rock outcroppings were great for snorkeling
We chose to go in March as the boobies are nesting then. And boy, did we see boobies! Loads of my favorite blue-footed variety, as well as the brown- and red-footed boobies. The babies are cute and fluffy, with blue eyes to match their feet. Mom and Dad both tend to the nest and the offspring. On the whole the boobies were very friendly and curious. I suppose because Isla Isabel is a nature preserve, they do not seem to feel threatened by human presence. I kept my distance from the nests, however, using a long lens to get the close-up shots.
Nesting of the blue-footed boobies
I especially loved to watch the boobies fly. Their wings are apparently jointed in the middle, and as they fly they bend them vertically in the center, up and down. When they come in for a landing it is downright comical: their big round eyes look surprised or scared, their huge blue feet stick out in front of them as if to say, “Watch out! I’m coming in! Aaaahhhh!” The folding of their wings up and down at ninety degree angles is a sight to behold. In addition to my photos, I will share with you a beautiful video filmed by my dear friend Omar Calvario.
Humorous landings of the boobies with their double-jointed wings.
Wait for it! It’s worth watching the landing! Video by Omar Calvario.
During our stay the frigate birds were also nesting. As with the boobies, both parents take care of the nest and the babies. Sadly, we witnessed at least three babies fall from their nests. The biologists told us that once the baby falls to the ground, the parents abandon it. It was heart-wrenching to refrain from giving these fallen birds food or water, to preserve the natural order. They were soooo cute and very forlorn. The male frigate birds develop bright red gullets during mating season, which they inflate like balloons. They then release the air in those inflated red gullets slowly to make their mating call, which sounds like a guttural vibration or “tap tap tap.” At first I thought they were snapping their beaks together.
Nesting frigate birds; red gullets are the males
Isla Isabel is also covered with iguanas; they are everywhere. Between the huge quantity of birds, the smell of guano, and having to watch your step to avoid iguanas, I really felt that we were visiting the Land that Time Forgot. It seemed to me to be the time of the dinosaurs—a time long ago before humans ruined the natural environment of Pachamama. Below are photos of a couple of tropic birds.
Tropic birds in flight
A final blessing of our trip were clear, cloudless skies! We went during the new moon, hoping to photograph the Milky Way. We were blessed with two nights for photography. My only disappointment was that there was a sailboat off the island, exactly toward the galactic center, and it had a bright light on top of its mast. As it was inevitable, I choose to think it adds to the beauty of the photographs. I was also able to capture photos of the nesting frigates, who nest in the trees, with the Milky Way overhead. My dream had been to capture nesting boobies with the galactic center, but as they nest on the ground this was a bit more problematic. I guess I’ll just have to make another trip.
The Milky Way and galactic center as seen over Las Monas, the beach, the small fishing port, and a frigate bird nest, all Isla Isabel.
I came home with numerous cuts, scratches, bruises and splinters. Ten days later I am still removing splinters from various spots on my body. Isla Isabel is not high-end luxury travel. I fell in love with the place and can’t wait to return. I am fearful, however, because the Mexican government is building a terminal in San Blas that will have daily ferry service to Isla Isabel as well as the Islas Marías. While they say the trips offered will be eco-touristic, it frightens me that these gorgeous nature preserves may soon be ruined. I am guessing that ferry service may make the islands more accessible as day trips, which could be nice. If you want to go, I urge you to do so soon, before it’s too late. We went with: SARTIAGUIN TOURS Y EXPEDICIONES, Calle Valentín Canalizo, 63740 San Blas, México, Tel. 311 117 1123, e-mail: emiliosartiaguinc@hotmail.com.
If you enjoy my reporting and the photography, please help us continue it by purchasing a print. They make terrific gifts and look great in your home or office. Contact me at thrudiseyes@gmail.com or via WhatsApp +52-669-122-8962.
You ROCK! Your generosity has made a tremendous difference in the lives of two wonderful Mazatleco men in need. Thank you very, very much!
Juan Manuel, Don Rodolfo, Dianne and Greg
Last Christmas 85 families contributed to building a small but precious “little blue house” for Juan Manuel and Don Rodolfo. The building and furnishing process took several months and loads of love, but I want to report to you that the two gentlemen are living in their new home happily and healthily!
Thank you and bless you!!! Your year-end love for others and gifting to those less fortunate has made a huge difference in their lives. Rodolfo and Manuel are incredibly proud to own their own home. Below I share with you a video message from them, thanking the donors from the bottom of their hearts and wishing you all a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
After we began the house project, Don Rodolfo suffered a cerebral hemorrhage that caused partial paralysis in his face and left arm. He suffers great pain, on and off, in the damaged hand. Juan Manuel, his son, was blind and had lost a leg when we started. Shortly after we gave them the home in March 2021, Manuel had to go on dialysis twice a week for 4-5 hours each time. These were major health setbacks for each of these two gentlemen, yet they continue joyful, grateful and optimistic. The gigantic key we gave them when we handed over the keys to the house, engraved with their names, still proudly hangs on the front door. Inside the home is very much a home: family photographs, books, and daily necessities all have a place in the tiny yet comfortable space.
Just last week Rodolfo used the leftover blue paint to redo the exterior of the “little blue house” (Adolfo’s dream color, a play on Frida Kahlo’s beautiful home in Coyoacán). He added a white line around the perimeter, which is a very charming addition; it really makes the periwinkle jump out. Our son’s girlfriend’s father gifted them a couple of papaya trees and a guava, which have grown strong and born them much fruit. They are now very proud gardeners who were recently gifted a lime tree as well. The trees provide shade to the house and back patio, which Rodolfo has covered with a tarp to provide additional shade. Someone generously donated a used washing machine to them, which they located on the rear patio, but it does not work properly, so Rodolfo washes clothes and bedding by hand on the exterior washboard we installed. With his paralyzed and painful hand that is far from easy. They’ve strung clotheslines on the back patio and have a chair on the front porch. Click on any photo to enlarge it or view a slideshow.
You may remember that we received a solid wood trundle bed, which has proven to be absolutely perfect for the space and their lives. Juan Manuel sleeps on top, and Don Rodolfo folds up a plastic chaise lounge and once that is out of the way he pulls out the trundle in order to sleep at night.
The younger son gifted them a beautiful large wooden armoire that locks; that is where they now keep their clothing and valuables. They received a donated, used television and miraculously have SKY TV! The television is invaluable to Juan Manuel, as he listens to news shows throughout the day. It seems the 350 pesos-every-two-months that they pay for electricity includes the television signal as well. The sad thing to me is that we didn’t install a conduit for the cable, so Rodolfo had to drill a hole through the previously water-tight concrete wall. Live and learn.
While we installed a water heater in the home, deeming it a necessity given Manuel’s health needs, they have been using cold water only. Rodolfo told me they have only the one propane tank, and it currently supplies the cooking stove; the tank doesn’t have a splitter valve. With the cold temperatures having arrived, it would be so nice to get the water heater working. They have not been using the microwave we bought them back when they still lived in their rental home, because the electrical current in the invasion/squatter colony is not strong enough to power the oven. Manuel’s brother is keeping the microwave until they are ready to have it.
Over the summer Juan Manuel and Rodolfo had to move out of the little blue house to live with the younger son and his family for six weeks or so. It made for extremely crowded and uncomfortable living conditions for everyone involved. Manuel’s doctor said it was imperative that he not sweat, or the dialysis port would become infected. We had installed a ceiling fan and gifted them a floor fan, plus the windows and doors all open, but our efforts weren’t enough to keep the home cool. There is insufficient electrical current to power an air conditioner. This is a problem that will arise again next summer. Though by then the area may have official metered electrical service, making an A/C and microwave possible.
Each time I visit, both men are warm, smiling and welcoming. They struggle to pay for dialysis, which costs 700 pesos each session plus the 200-peso cab fare to get to the General Hospital and back (1800/week total). They are overjoyed when we bring them despensas/food stuffs. This Christmas they are hoping for some new clothes and a few toys for Rodolfo’s two grandchildren/Juan Manuel’s niece and nephew; Rodolfo told us that his younger son, Manuel’s brother, lost his job four months ago and is now working at one that pays only half what he made previously. Brandon Giovani is nine years old and love to play with toy cars and pistols.
Sofia Beatriz is four and enjoys dolls, jigsaw puzzles and coloring books.
My main purpose with this article is to thank you for your generosity. We truly have a wonderful community here in Mazatlán. Thank you! Should you wish to again help Juan Manuel or Rodolfo in some way (donation towards dialysis, help with propane tank splitter or washing machine, toys for the grandkids or clothes, shoes or food for the two men), please let me know (dianne@vidamaz.com, What’sApp 669-122-8962). I can help you get it to them or pick it up and get it to them for you.
Here’s wishing you a wonderful holiday season and a blessings-filled 2022! Stay healthy and happy.
¡VidaMaz! 