Día de los Muertos en Durango

You may recall that last month we went to Durango, prior to the road opening. This weekend we had to go again. Thank GOODNESS the road was open! The Baluarte Bridge is incredible, and the entire drive is unbelievably gorgeous and easy (three hours door to door). Greg will write more about that in a separate post.

We were heartbroken to miss the callejoneada for Day of the Dead here in Mazatlán, but we thought we’d share with you a glimpse of what Día de los Muertos looks like elsewhere. In Durango the cemeteries were full of people, of course—flowers, cleaning, bands, praying and partying. The city also hosted a hot air balloon festival. In the main plaza, in front of the cathedral, there was a large “Day of the Dead” display set up. It contained a dozen or more life-sized papier maché katrinas and other scenes, plus a few stages for performances.

Durango was completely different this time, primarily because last time we were there it was the height of their major annual cultural festival. Streets, plazas and restaurants were much less crowded this time around. Below are some photos we took this trip—a favorite new restaurant, some street scenes, and the plaza display. Click any photo to enlarge or view a slide show.

On Friday night Greg and I wandered back down to the plaza while Danny studied for his test, and there was a children’s folkloric dance group performing. What was out of the ordinary about this one was that the kids all dressed up as calacas—skeletons—and in glow-in-the-dark costumes. The stage was lit with black lights, so it was a pretty cool effect. We enjoyed it a lot.

Just prior to the performance, the little kids had fun posing for my camera. During the performance, shots were of course very challenging, as it was very dark and the kids were constantly moving. They danced to some songs you’d expect—Michael Jackson’s “Thriller,” for example—and they also took us on a tour around México.

I put together a short (three minute) video of the performance. I trust you’ll enjoy watching it. The kids had soooo much fun in their costumes. They knew they looked great.

On the pedestrian street to the left of the cathedral, just down from Hostal de las Monjas and across the street from our favorite little cenaduría, El Parcero Tacos Bar, is a large funeral home, Funerales Hernández. They had an altar to Jenni Rivera that was larger and more superb than ANY I have EVER laid my eyes on. They called it a “Monumental Altar de Muertos.” It contained dozens of life-sized katrinas, ceramic and sugar skulls, antique and artesenal chachkes, Jenni Rivera music playing (not too loud), a mini disco ball for effect, and gorgeous paper work. Just take a look:

On our way back to the hotel, we walked by the old Palacio Municipal. It was all decorated for Day of the Dead, too. Those photos are below.

 

Fiesta Amigos 2013

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State Secretary of Tourism Francisco Córdova, Greg and Dianne from VidaMaz, Governor Malova, Mayor Higuera, and El Cid’s Carlos Berdegue.

As always, the annual tourist industry event—La Gran Fiesta Amigos de Mazatlán—has been a spectacular success. A bit warm and humid outdoors last night for this time of year, but those attending from throughout Mexico, Canada and the States didn’t mind it one bit. The event this year was 70% smaller than it was last year, primarily because they are gearing up for the big 20th anniversary next year. We actually really liked the smaller size—much easier to get to know people, and I imagine it’s more realistic to cook gourmet food for a smaller group (about 250, I’d guess).

The Fiesta Amigos 2013 opening cocktail reception was Monday evening at the Luna Palace. I have never before attended a special event there. The place was beautifully decorated and very welcoming, and the service was impeccable. Photos below; click on one to enlarge or view a slideshow.

Tour operators, travel agents, airline officials, hotel and hospitality officials spent all day Tuesday at our gorgeous convention center in meetings. Then, last night was the gala dinner at Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay. We had cocktails on the lawn while a sax players serenaded us. After brief comments by the governor, we went up some stairs to dine on the rooftop overlooking the ocean. The decorations were stunning, and the food was unbelievably good. I think I could eat that soup (squash blossom and mussel) every day for a month! Photos below; click on one to enlarge or view a slideshow.

The highlight of the event is the presentation of the “Golden Deer” Awards. This year’s winners included Delta Airlines, Sun Country Airlines, Expedia, Best Day (Mexican online travel agent), our new friends Estur (national tour operators)—for the third consecutive year. A new award this year was for convention organizers, and the inaugural award in that category went to Mark Rogers. The major award, “Amigo de Mazatlán,” was given to Don Guillermo Bernal Valdez, for his over 40 years of intense promotion of our port. Due to health issues Don Guillermo could not be present; the award was accepted by his three children. Photos below; click on one to enlarge or view a slideshow.

Governor Malova and Mayor Higuera attended last night’s gala. Giving out the awards were Carlos Berdeque Sacristán and Gaspar Pruneda, Vice-Presidents of the Hotel and Tourist Business Association; Francisco Córdova Celaya, State Secretary of Tourism; and Sergio Rómero, standing in for Mayor Higuera who had departed with the governor before the awards were given.

There was a whole lot of excitement in the air, and lots of talk about the new highway to Durango and the Puente Baluarte. Huge kudos to the Mazatlán Hotel Association, Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay,  Luna Palace, and the Convention Center for such a huge success!

Feliz Día del Mesero! A Waiters’ Race Like No Other!

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Many times I’ve seen the photos, from Italy, I believe, of waiters running through the streets carrying trays full of things. I’ve always wanted to see one. A few years ago I remember hearing about and attending one here in Mazatlán, just prior to the Marathon, but it wasn’t that exciting.

This past week, Tuesday October 22, was the “Traditional Day of the Waiter,” and a party was hosted at BoraBora to honor these terrific people who make all our lives so much better. One of the events was a race, beginning at Bora Bora, running down the heavily trafficked Camarón Sábalo AGAINST traffic, I might add. They ran all the way down to Panamá restaurant, then turned around and ran back. The winner won a big-screen TV and some money, so it was quite the competition. Photos are below; click on any to enlarge or view a slideshow.

What a load of fun! We are really glad we showed up to watch, as it was a hoot! The photos and video aren’t the greatest, as it was dark and the area is not exactly well-lit. A few botargas or “mascots” also joined in the festivities and had their own race. It was hysterical as they tried to flag down buses, cabs and cars.

I post a video with exerpts from the race below.

Taking a Portrait of 3000 People

1381649_10201534802225791_1975991804_nWe are all very proud of the success of the Mazatlán International Center. That Teachers’ Union really knows what it’s doing! The convention center has brought huge groups of people to our port, and seems to be a resounding success.

Yesterday (Tuesday), I was privileged to watch as 89 busloads of employees —3000 people in total — arrived from Sigma Alimentos/Sigma Foods, Mexico’s largest producer of refrigerated and processed foods (brand names FUD, San Rafael, Noche Buena, and others, as well as licensing Yoplait and Oscar Meyer).

The 3000 gathered in front of that gorgeous mosaic on the northern wall of the convention center, for a group portrait. Group portrait?! Of 3000 people?! How many risers and bleachers would they have to have so that you could see everyone?

My photography teacher, Salvador Herrera, had told me about the event on Monday. He said he had rented a crane (in the States we would call it a cherry picker, but this really was a crane, retrofitted to accommodate a cage to stand in), and would be taking the portrait the following afternoon. Eager to learn, and to witness, Greg and I drove up there.

Neither of us have ever seen Mexican people so orderly and obedient! They gathered in color-coded regional groups, they stood in straight lines. They carried sparkly signs and cheered and waves non-stop for about 30 minutes, yet they were quiet and smiling when it was time for the formal portrait.

Salvador tells me this is a first, taking a group portrait of 3000 people. I will say it was extremely cool! Thank you for letting us know! Photos below; click to enlarge or see a slideshow.

Baños Roma

P1050706 Coming into the Angela Peralta Theater on Saturday, October 12, the doors to the theater remained closed. I asked my girlfriend if we were late, as I wasn’t wearing a watch. I knew we were 10 minutes before curtain time. “You are fine,” said the usher. “Just walk down here and turn right.” As we walked down a long, dark hallway, I wondered if this was some sort of early Halloween or Day of the Dead prank. But, no, we were being ushered ONTO the stage!

What a feeling! I of course turned around, looked out at that gorgeous theater, and hammed it up a bit. My moment of fame on the stage! The stage was set up very simply, with several folding tables, a few props, a large television screen and video camera, and hooks hanging from the catwalks overhead. There were bleachers set up on the stage, facing this smaller performance area. Cool! We took a seat.

As we waited, a guy dressed as a painter used a roller on an extension pole to paint some very cool scenes. Then, just before the play started, he painted over it all. Heartbreak. But very interesting. (Video below) They ended up using the white wall as a projection screen during the performance. And the dog that just happened to be wandering around the stage before the play, dovetailing seamlessly with the evening’s performance—pure serendipity.

575701_1453595308199633_913620309_nThe play we were about to see was entitled, “Baños Roma,” by the internationally renowned theater troupe, Teatro Línea de Sombra. I knew it was the story of José Ángel (Mantequilla) Nápoles, the famous Cuban-Mexican boxer (career of 78 wins and 7 losses, with 55 wins by knockout), interwoven with the story of the horrible violence and cultural illness that took over Ciudad Juárez and the “Baños Roma” neighborhood. I am most interested in the latter, so was looking forward to the play. It did not disappoint. In fact, the actors and production company received a standing ovation! We were all so incredibly moved by the performance that people hung around, talking, watching. The ushers actually had to ask people to leave!

What made this performance so incredible? Of course, the narrative: both stories are incredibly powerful and emotive, and they were woven together seamlessly, dovetailing and building on one another. What really stood out to me, however, was the unbelievable creativity of the performance. With an extreme minimalism of props and sets, we were taken inside the experiences of the “lost women” of Ciudad Juárez. Sawdust on the floor served first as a dance floor, then as a map of the city on which to draw the layout of streets. A punching bag was filled with fabrics; unpacking it showed clothing and memories. Actors took turns in extreme closeup to a camera, and spoke to us via large screen projection. Scales were laid down on the floor to represent weigh-ins and weight categories for boxers. We listened to the metamorphosis of an amazingly talented throat-voice actor, and then he also played the sax. A live band came in at one point, during a drinking party on stage. A can of white spray was shot into the air to represent snow falling on a dead dog, the memory of a woman in the story. Another woman died, or was killed, in front of us, and the dramatic simplicity was heartbreaking. Punching bags hung from the catwalk transformed into poles for exotic dancing. It was the best of a Mexican performance—raw, poetic, ferocious—and the best of creative minimalism. (Photos below)

Thank you, CULTURA Mazatlán, for bringing this here! And for 120 pesos a ticket, you permitted me to pay for my friend!

Línea de la Sombra is a traveling troupe, so if you get a chance to watch them, don’t miss it!