What a welcome home! The callejoneada (alley parade) this year for Day of the Dead in Mazatlán was the best ever, if I dare say so! It was a perfect evening weather-wise: clear skies highlighted by a gorgeous crescent moon, and warm weather that was cool enough for comfort. More people and especially more complete families participated, more dressed up, the beer flowed more freely and was better organized, and the main costumed characters were spectacular!
This year’s event was a tribute to Maestro Rigo Lewis, the long-time creator of our unbelievably gorgeous Carnavál carrozas/floats, so the callejoneada for Day of the Dead had a Carnavalesque air to it this year; it was a beautiful fusion of two local traditions for which Mazatlán has international fame. Kudos and thanks to CULTURA and to the Centro Municipal de Arte staff and students! By the way, I’ve been told we will STILL this year AND next year in the Carnavál parade will have carrozas designed by Maestro Rigo! His legacy lives on, thanks to his hard work and passion.
Click on any of the images below to see it larger or to view a slideshow.
I loved how this Katrina had so many faces, thanks to Carnaval/DOD masks.
Ghostly revelers; I really enjoyed this fortuitous pic!
So young and gorgeous…pirates die, too.
Dancers can die young as well…. Such a festive celebration of our ancestors and departed friends this year.
The wee ones are always the cutest, particularly this sister and brother enjoying dinner at La Tramoya.
Mazatlecos! The main reason most of us so love it here! THIS is joie de vivre!
The free beer was given out from five different carts this year, and refilled a few times over the route. This year pitchers were used rather than everyone waiting for the tap.
Mother and daughter beauties.
Spinning fire dancers
More ghostly revelers, due to the rapid movement and the low light. I personally love it!
We had one very scary katrina this year!
Handsome lads to be departing this world so young
Maestro Rigos photo crowned this former Carnavál queen
Closeup of the tribute to Maestro Rigo Lewis.
This aerial of the crowd from CULTURA
The setting, our gorgeous architecture, is such the star of Day of the Dead
Jesters apparently retain their sense of humor in the afterlife.
I am sorry to have been so long away from this page, but after seven years it was wonderful to reconnect this summer with family and friends north of the border in a lengthier, more meaningful way. We were able to celebrate my aunt’s 80th birthday, be with my sister-cousin through surgery, and settle Danny into his dorm room and college life. For that I am ever grateful! Plus I had a month of work in Europe, where I met incredible people and thoroughly enjoyed myself. Of course we missed home, and our friends and family here, terribly.
Saturday night felt like our personal welcome home party, as we hugged loved ones everywhere we went. Funniest, to me, was how often I had to ask, “Who are you?” as the costumes were so excellent that they disguised identities quite effectively!
Apparently you can, indeed, take it with you to the grave!
Lovely people and gorgeous setting!
The hat, the parasol, gloves, dress and makeup were incredibly sophisticated.
So hard to have fun, you know… 😉
Great photo opps for posing our friends
As usual, some of the makeup was just unbelievably detailed, with full costumes to match!
Groups of good friends having makeup parties and then enjoying the night’s festivities
Every year a different costume and makeup, all gorgeous
Soon good to reconnect with good friends!
Smiles, smiles and more smiles. The warmth of this town is infectious.
I can’t imagine not dancing in the parade with the live music, if one is able to do so, as it is just so much fun! There are, however, many people who line the route to watch and enjoy, as well as those who camp out at front-row-seats in bars and restaurants to watch the parade pass by.
Terrific live music
The moon over the stilt-walkers
Even the beer servers were made up this year
Dad and daughter
The moon again
Life in the Plaza Machado after the callejoneada was a sight to behold as well. I unfortunately can’t tell you anything about the event inside the theater, as though we waited in line at the Machado for about 90 minutes to get tickets, they ran out long before it was our turn.
We met one woman who was here in town to celebrate her 50th birthday, all the way from Washington DC with two of her best girlfriends. They obviously brought complete Day of the Dead costumes with them for their holiday! We saw store-bought costumes, handmade costumes, traditional and modern versions, and fortunately there were many of us who were still alive and un-costumed to enjoy the rest!
50th birthday girl from DC on the right, her girlfriend on the left
Loved her approach!
Modern costuming makes things much easier!
A modern version of a costume. I need this dress!
Getting in on the fun
My absolute favorite moment of the evening, and there were so many awesome ones to choose from, was as the callejoneada entered the plazuela. Just in front of the theater, a group of young men started cheering loudly, dancing and jumping around. “Güero! “Güero!” they were shouting. As I turned around to see what all the happy commotion was about, I realized they were cheering on my partner, Greg. He was dancing happily, having been soaked with beer head to toe earlier in the evening.
CULTURA TV is going to stream it’s video of the callejoneada this Wednesday, November 5, at 5:00 pm local time. Be sure to check it out! There are many more aspects of Day of the Dead in Mazatlán; the callenjoneada is just one activity. This blog post can give you a broader idea for your trip. I know my favorites include making an altar to remember my departed family members and friends, as well as remembering them in Mass each year. We hope you’ll join us so we can dance with you all next year!
Greg absolutely hates Halloween, but Day of the Dead is his favorite holiday here. Go figure! He loves it even more than Carnavál, and that’s saying a lot. His favorite part of Día de los Muertos festivities is the callejoneada, the parade that winds through the narrow streets of the Centro Histórico. This year I had fun putting together a “scary movie trailer”-type video (above) to commemorate the event. I hope you enjoy it!
I’ve written a few posts about Día de los Muertos here in Mazatlán. This year there were a few things different, of course. One was the gorgeous, colorful katrina costumes in the callejoneada. They were breathtaking! You can see them in the video above. Many of them actually lit up, which was extra cool!
Another new development we noticed is that the print shop just down from us put up a big outdoor walk-through Day of the Dead display, complete with life-size katrina statues and a large altar, all lit at night.
At the bottom is the map of this year’s “official” altars that the Katrina visited last night during the callejoneada in order to accompany the dead to the other world.
“To be Mexican is to come back from the dead every November 2nd”
This coming week is a wonderful time in Mazatlán, with altars to departed loved ones set up in homes and businesses, “dead bread” (pan de muerto) for sale in the bakeries, and sugar skulls everywhere. Soon we’ll be reading the calaveritas in the newspaper, in homage to (or roasting of) politicians and celebrities.
I thought it a good time to share with you a previous post we did about Day of the Dead festivities in Mazatlán: Day of the Dead in Mazatlan
The callejoneada (parade with the Catrinas past the altars with the donkey-pulled beer kegs) will be Thursday night starting in the Plazuela Machado at 8 pm. RIGHT NOW the Municipal Center for the Arts, Cecilia Sanchez Duarte, Glen Rogers and others are working on cool steamroll prints of Catrinas and other images to be carried in the callejoneada. If you are on Facebook you can check out photos here.
Please be sure to get out and enjoy all our beautiful port has to offer! Day of the Dead is one of our favorite local festivities!
Several of you have asked me to post information about Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos) celebrations here in Mazatlán. This holiday is one of our favorites, and we’d love for you to enjoy it as much as we do!
Day of the Dead in Mazatlán is a happy, festive celebration that takes place November 1 and 2 — All Saints’ and All Souls’ Days in the Christian (particularly Roman Catholic) religious calendar.
The tradition goes back prior to the import (or imposition) of Christianity to the New World. As in other indigenous belief systems around the world from Asia to Africa to Latin America, Mazatlecos believe that once a year departed family members and friends come back to this world to visit their family and friends. And who wouldn’t want to take advantage of a once a year opportunity to party again with departed loved ones?!
Bakeries, Candy Stores and Artesanía Shops
One of the first signs that Day of the Dead is approaching is that you begin to see pan de muerto, bread of the dead, in the bakeries. These loaves of bread are often put on a family’s altar and then eaten after the ancestors have had their fill. You will also see calaveras or skulls made of sugar and amaranth, decorated with brightly colored frosting, for sale in the bakeries and candy stores. If you are visiting Mazatlán during the end of October or first days of November, be sure to stop in a bakery or two, and definitely visit a traditional candy store.
Also be sure to visit one of the many handicraft shops around town, as you will find wonderful Day of the Dead souvenirs, including traditional ceramic Katrinas and calaveras, skeletons representing people working in all sorts of different professions and engaging in sports and other hobbies. You’ll find lots of souvenirs to take home. Between the bakeries, candy stores, handicraft shops and even the fabric stores, you will find loads of wonderful gifts to take home.
Altars
Next you will begin to see altares or family altars. Many families put together an altar to welcome back their departed loved ones.
On a table or a multi-tiered piling of crates, they put out photos of loved ones along with articles that belonged to them, cempasúchitl (marigold) flowers, tissue paper flowers, salt, candles, and water. Ofrendas or offerings of favorite foods or drink and items from favorite pastimes are also set out to entice the dead to stop in and stay a while.
There is an art to making an altar, and here in Mazatlán you will see everything from charmingly simple to very elaborate altars. Some years the Mayor’s Office or Secretary of Tourism have put out a map of the altars available for public viewing (usually the ones that will be visited during the callejoneada, below), so it’s worthwhile to check if a map’s available. If not, walking around the streets of historic downtown is definitely worth an afternoon or evening.
If you are in the Golden Zone, you will find that many hotels and other businesses set up altars, often for famous people that have passed on (i.e. Michael Jackson, Marilyn Monroe). Many of the altars are really heartwarming, showing incredible love and attention to detail.
The Callejoneada Parade, Evening of November 1st
Unlike celebrations with lengthier histories and more solemnic processions such as those in Michoacán or Oaxaca, Mazatlán’s Day of the Dead celebrations involve donkeys that pull gigantic kegs of free beer through the streets of downtown.
This callejoneada, a parade through the narrow streets of the Centro Histórico, takes place from about 6:30 pm on the evening of November 1st. It begins and ends in the Plazuela Machado, and afterwards families tend to hang out for cena or late night supper. Before the callejoneada there is frequently a performance event in the Angela Peralta theater. Many years there have also been public performances in the Plazuela Machado after the parade. Check schedulesor ask around to be sure what’s on when you’re here.
The white Katrina accompanies
children to the afterlife.
The black Katrina accompanies
adults to the afterlife.
The callejoneada is, for us, a not-to-be-missed event. Our very talented young dancers and actors from the Centro Municipal de Artedress in costumes.
Live bands join in.
Many in the crowd also wear skull masks or skeleton costumes, and a group of hundreds if not more than a thousand dances and sings its way through the streets of downtown, visiting the various altars to help the white and black Katrinas accompany the souls of those who have left this life during the year safely to the afterlife. Do not miss the callejoneada!
Wear comfortable shoes, do not hesitate to push your way up to the donkey cart for some free beer (wear clothes that you won’t mind having beer spilled on), have your camera set to night action mode, and be prepared to enjoy!
Perhaps you’d like to see a short video clip of the Day of the Dead parade?
Cemeteries
Be sure to visit the municipal cemetery or another, smaller one during Day of the Dead.
Most families will visit the graves of their ancestors to clean the gravesite, to set out fresh flowers, and, often, they take along a picnic, hire a band, and party a bit, right there in the cemetery!
While the children play, grandparents, uncles and aunties, Mom and Dad share a beer, eat some lunch, and reminisce about the dearly departed. I trust someone does this on my behalf some day!
As you approach the cemetery you will see flower shops and impromptu vendors selling all sorts of gorgeous flowers and decorations. Entering the cemetery, you will often see bands wandering around, hoping to be hired. Also, many workers are available to help tend to a tombstone, or simply carry water. It’s well worth a couple of hours. Most years we have been invited by friends to join their celebrations, though the first year we were here strangers invited us to join them.
“Roasting” the Living: Newspapers and School Fairs
Another tradition this time of year is to celebrate the living as if they were dead. I believe this somehow reminds us all that we are on a one-way path through life.
The first time I witnessed this was at my son’s school. We walked in to find fake gravestones lining the walkways, with the names of (living!) teachers on the headstones! Each headstone contained a calavera or funny poem about the teacher. You will see many of these calavera poems in the newspaper, written about major politicians or celebrities in the news.
Friends will have the names of their (living) friends put on one of the sugar skulls, so that the friends can “eat their own death.” To someone not familiar with these practices it can seem a bit eerie, but it’s all done in good humor and filled with affection. One year at our son’s school they did “living altars,” where the kids acted out famous dead people.
Halloween
The Catholic diocese here tends to encourage people to celebrate Day of the Dead and very much discourages any celebration of Halloween, often referring to it as a witch’s or devil’s holiday. In Mazatlán, however, you will see children dress up in costumes and go trick or treating at the Gran Plaza or within El Cid residential development, usually on the evening of October 31.
Young adults, from junior high school on up, hold costume parties for Halloween.
Most of the dance clubs also hold Halloween parties. You’ll also see a lot of very sexily costumed young people waiting in line outside the clubs to celebrate a version of Halloween that, in my day, had not yet been invented 😉
We do hope you’ll enjoy Day of the Dead (and Halloween), Mazatlán style!
¡VidaMaz! 