Tag Archives: daily life in Mazatlan

Palapa Mariscos Los Porteños

IMG_0868 Lots of changes these days amongst the palapas on the malecon. Many of the changes were precipitated by the storms during the summer of 2014 while other changes are just natural turnover and expansion. One of the more intriguing changes for us is the addition of Palapa Mariscos Los Porteños. Why is this intriguing to us? Well Los Porteños is one of the better known Bandas of Mazatlán (click here for video). It is an interesting concept to have the owner of a banda group open a palapa with the same name. One of the other welcome changes along the malecon is more banda music beyond the strolling musicians. More palapas are welcoming bandas to play at their restaurant, including of course, Mariscos Los Porteños. The day we ate there the band playing featured various members of local bandas. They were getting in practice time and played very well together. Their vocalist lacked a microphone, so he would sing at your table with the band remaining stationary at the end of the restaurant. A nice touch. Songs were 100 pesos each, but spread among 12 guys, that’s not a bad deal. We negotiated four for 300. IMG_0884 IMG_0908 We found Palapa Los Porteños to be excellent as far as palapas go. First, it is new, which means it is clean and a little more modern than others. It is larger than some as well with ample beach seating under umbrellas or seating under palapas. The kitchen is fast and efficient and the servers friendly and dedicated to your satisfaction. The palapa is well built with attractive supporting beams. The kitchen pick up area features a matching wood face that is unique to Mazatlán palapas. It has a very unique and deceiving floor which you can check out in the photos.

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We have long kept a tradition of dining at a palapa each Friday. Originally this was to celebrate Danny surviving another week of school, but now just a chance to remember why we live where we do and celebrate the end of a work week. We have kept a list of palapas in order north to south with our likes and dislikes and relevant comments, but it is sorely in need of updating. After the commotion of Semana Santa, I am committed to getting this done and will publish it for everyone to use and comment upon. Until then, take off your sandals, order a cold beer and some fish or shrimp and enjoy Mariscos Los Porteños. You will find more or less across from the Sands Hotel. Coming south from the acuario, it is the second palapa. Across the street are things like Qualitas Insurance and the Mara Gymnasium, Scorpio V and the road to the bus station. Provecho!

Update: The band contacted me and gave me the website for the restaurant.

Social Services’ (DIF) Annual Report

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Sylvia Treviño de Felton giving her first “State of DIF Mazatlán” report in the Angela Peralta Theater

This morning the Presidenta del Systema DIF de Mazatlán, Sylvia Treviño de Felton, gave her first annual report to a full house in our gorgeous Angela Peralta Theater. I attended with a group of girlfriends, and walked out of today’s event amazed at the amount of work Ms. Treviño and her team have been able to achieve. Congratulations and thank you to all!

I’ve long been fascinated with the incredible work done by Mexico’s DIF, the national system for the Development of the Family (Desarrollo Integral de la Familia). DIF’s services target children, women, the handicapped, and families in need. Its broad range of services includes, among many more:
  • Healthcare, including basic services, eye care and physical therapy
  • Education to prevent teenage pregnancy and domestic violence, and on topics such as human rights
  • Occupational training
  • Free breakfasts for school children
  • Food, blankets, and coats for the needy
  • Scholarships
  • Early childhood education and eldercare
  • Drug rehab
  • Community centers
  • Dances, balls, sports events, and parties
  • Help for unwed mothers
  • The improvement of parks and public spaces

DIF’s is a much different system than those I’m familiar with from my previous residences: the USA, where the Department of Health and Human Services seems to me far removed from daily life, and churches, non-profits and other civic organizations play a major role in feeding the homeless or aiding victims of domestic violence; or in Japan, where government-provided social services seem primarily to involve health care and pensions.

When I’ve been disappointed by municipal administrations, somehow our local DIF still shines through. How much better, then, under a first couple who seem to truly and honestly care about the welfare of our people and the city?

The gorgeous girlfriends
A few members of the “cabildo infantil” or children’s city council
The mayor of the “cabildo infantil” or children’s city council
Sylvia and Carlos Felton this morning in the TAP

This morning’s event kicked off with two songs sung by a selection of adorable girls from the local DIF chorus, and a dance performance done in silhouette and demonstrating some of the various services provided by DIF.

Dance performance conducted in silouette
Dance performance conducted in silouette
Dance performance conducted in silouette
Dance performance conducted in silouette
DIF’s children’s chorus
DIF’s children’s chorus
DIF’s children’s chorus

Instead of the usual long and detailed verbal report, Ms. Treviño instead showed us a ten-minute video summarizing DIF Mazatlán’s major activities during the first year of the Felton administration. It was much more impactful to see photos and watch video as the facts and figures were shared.

Sylvia followed the video with a short and heartfelt presentation, and shared copies of the official 2014 printed report with the Mayor and the Director of DIF Mazatlán.

First lady Sylvia Treviño de Felton giving her report
First lady Sylvia Treviño de Felton giving her report
Handing over of the official reports for the first year of the administration
One of the colorful event banners
The official printed report
Closeup of the official printed report
Closeup of the official printed report
Closeup of the official printed report

If you regularly read this blog, you know that I am frequently disappointed by government officials who so frequently grab the limelight and the credit away from staff and volunteers who do the day-to-day heavy lifting. Such was not the case today. Ms. Treviño de Felton showed a second video, one she had created especially to thank DIF staff—the team that helps realize all the good work on behalf of children, women, the elderly, the handicapped, and families in need in our municipality. It was a wonderful feeling to be amongst the cheering, hooting and hollering coming from the DIF staff and volunteers present in the theater, as they saw photos of their favorite colleagues appear on screen.

If you are not familiar with the activities in which DIF Mazatlán is engaged, I urge you to watch the video below, subtitled in English. Unfortunately the video that was shown this morning, summarizing the first year, does not yet appear on DIF Mazatlán’s YouTube channel. I’m confident it will in a few days, so if you’re interested, be sure to check the link.

Our Beloved Favorite: Stone Island

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We all love Isla de la Piedra, Stone Island. We love the:

  • Serenity—the long stretches of gorgeous beach with, normally, very few people. In fact, our family describes it to our visitors as “Gilligan’s Island.”
  • Smiling, welcoming faces who greet us in this lovely little town.
  • Number of ambulatory musicians who come by.
  • Fishermen preparing their boats to take out in the evening, working tirelessly to repair their nets for their night’s work.
  • Vendors and, especially, those who have the thighs to bicycle along the beach.
The duo searching for work
A vendor’s bicycle waiting his return
A musician waiting to play
A band tuning up
Beach vendors
A band playing for some diners
And the bassist
Beach vendors
Beach vendors
Beach vendors
Fishermen getting their boats ready
Fishermen repairing their nets

And we love the fresh seafood, caught that day and served raw or barbecued over an open flame.

Our favorite place to spend the day is Pili’s. We met Rudy, Barbara and the family of Pili’s owners when Danny was just three or four. We were introduced by our compadre, Ruben. Danny fell in love with the pretty Alhondra, who was 11 or 12 at the time, and is now married with a toddler and living in Tijuana. Pill’s makes the BEST zarandeado. Barbara sells fresh oysters and clams, and the cold coconuts are always a hit. As is a bucket of beer, or a piña colada.

At Pili’s
Pargo zarandeado
Fresh oysters, pennies each
Closeup of my coconut, after I drank the water and Rudy cut out the meat for me
Barbara at her raw bar
Rudy opening an ice-cold coconut
Me eating both, the oysters and the coconut!
Barbara shucking some oysters

Stone Island is one of our favorites, and is always one of our visitors’ favorite places, too. No, it’s not an island. It’s a peninsula. We get there from Mazatlán by water taxi. It’s part of what all of us love about going to the Isla for the day.

Departing on the water taxi from the embarcadero by the brewery, one of two in town
Pelicans at the embarcadero of the water taxi
Departing on the water taxi from the embarcadero by the brewery, one of two in town

We love how, despite Mother Nature’s havoc, the Islanders rebuild. August’s Hurricane Marie brought waist-high flooding to the places on the beach, and the water stayed for several days. It ruined over 27 of the restaurants on the beach, and despite promises from State Secretary of Tourism, Francisco Cordova, and Mayor Carlos Felton, the islanders never saw one centavo of assistance, from either the state or the municipio. At least that’s what our friends tell us, and the Noroeste reported. Since the islanders are no longer permitted to cut down trees, they had to rescue timber from the flood waters. But they did. They have rebuilt. The restaurants, at least most of them, are again open for business. Though you can still see bulldozers cleaning up debris.

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How much longer will we have the serene beauty that is Stone Island, this idyllic paradise that is only a five- or ten-minute water taxi away from our daily lives here in Mazatlán?

Soon they will widen and pave the road from the airport. It will be much easier for tourists, who arrive via the new highway or by air, to get to Stone Island without needing to come into Mazatlán. No doubt development will follow.

And the construction of Amaitlán continues. Planned to be an eco-friendly mega-resort with lots of green space, you can see the first parts of it in the “Botanic Garden” on Stone Island. The first few rental cabañas are currently being built.

View from the Botanic Garden’s pond
Bees love the new Botanic Garden
Entrance to the Botanic Garden
Water lilies in the pond
Closeup of the pond in the Botanic Garden
70% of Amaitlan development is supposed to be green space
View in the Botanic Garden
Pathways in the Botanic Garden
A pond in the Botanic Garden, with a couple of nearby cabañas
Closeup of the pond
Closeup of the pond
A cabaña under construction in the Botanic Garden
A cute little bridge/walkway in the Botanic Garden
One of the arbors in the Botanic Garden
One of the largest hibiscus I’ve ever seen
A cabaña under construction in the Botanic Garden
Beautiful mosaics on the walkways in the Botanic Garden

Most of our friends on the Island, the ejidatarios, are excited about Amaitlán. They believe it will bring them jobs, income, sustainability for their families and the environment on the island. I am much more skeptical. But, I have my fingers crossed. I can hope. I do know that I would love to stay in one of these little cabañas, amidst all this lush, gorgeous greenery, assuming I could afford to do so.

I guess this post is really a homage to one of our absolute favorite places on earth these past 35 years. Nostalgic, because we don’t want it to change. Hopeful, as we pray things will change in sustainable ways that support the environment and local residents.

Let me close this post with a great story that Rudy told us during our last visit. He tells us that there was a rainstorm recently during which it rained fish—un aguacero de peces! And, even though they were drinking when this event occurred, he swears it really happened.

Furthermore, Rudy told us that it wasn’t the first time it’s rained fish here in Mazatlán! According to him, El Sol reported years ago about a rain of fishes in Playa Sur ( was unable to find such a story on the internet). Our interview took place during a perfect day on the beach, but somehow the ocean breeze caught my camera’s microphone. My apologies. I’ve done all I can to minimize that windy sound… The story is great though, so, heeere’s Rudy!

Post and Ship – A lot more than meets the eye.

IMG_0673Updated Dec 30, 2015 with new location information

Some of you are probably familiar with Post and Ship, and some may not be. No matter which category you fall into, most people don’t fully realize the range of services they provide, nor the history behind this Mazatlán institution. I encourage you to use their services, as it helps support local families, and you get the mail you want; so much better than those impersonal faceless scanning services, which suck the profit off to who knows where, but certainly not Mazatlán!

Post and Ship is owned by a U.S. American living in the States. When the store first opened in the 80’s it was a Mailboxes, Etc. franchise. After many years operating in this fashion, the decision was made to sever ties with the conglomerate and provide the same services at lower prices. Thus, Post and Ship was born in 2003.

When you see signs or business cards for the business, they say Post@Ship as compared to Post&Ship. The legal documents use the word ‘and.’ How the @ symbol got to be part of the printed name is a mystery, but a tradition that remains to this day.

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Despite the name, the largest and most important service provided to the community of Mazatlán is private mailbox rentals with a U.S. mailing address. This service is invaluable for many extranjeros living in the city, as well as Mexican businesses who want a U.S. presence. Renters are provided a unique mailing address in Laredo, Texas. There mail is sorted and shipped twice weekly to Mazatlán. The sorting facility is huge and shared with other companies, including Estafeta. There is a Mexican Customs (Aduana) representative on site, and any packages shipped to Mexico must pass through the customs office for clearance and applicable duty assessment. Packages are shipped separately from mail and bundled with others’ packages to keep the cost down.

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In addition to mailbox rental, as the name implies, Post and Ship will box up your national or international packages and help you get the best price from FedEx, UPS or Estafeta. They are an official UPS Access Point, so prepaid UPS packages can be dropped off there.

Another great service is outgoing mail to the U.S. and Canada using the U.S. mail. For 20 pesos for a one ounce or less letter or card, they will ship your stamped card to Laredo, where it is put into the U.S. mail service. It is illegal to sell stamps outside of the United States and Canada. So, you need to bring some stamps with you. If you don’t have stamps, they will ship the letter to Laredo where it will be stamped. This cost 45 pesos for U.S. and 65 pesos for the Canada (including the shipping).

Post and Ship is also part papeleria, selling a wide variety of office supplies like pens, envelopes, markers, folders, etc. They provide copier service, scanning service, incoming and outgoing fax service, and they even make keys! They are kind enough to maintain a community bulletin board with useful information to the foreign community in Mazatlán. They are often a pick-up point for tickets for various events happening here. And for those so inclined, you are welcome to use the wi-fi while you’re there.

Did I mention they also teach Spanish for free?! Well, not formally. Perhaps the best thing about Post and Ship are the two wonderful charming ladies who keep it running and provide customer service: Ana and Melva. Ana began working for the company in 2002 when it was still a MailBoxes, etc. Melva joined shortly thereafter in 2003 when the new business was born. They are both bilingual and happy to help you in English, but they are also the most patient and helpful Spanish conversationalists I have found in Mazatlán. They always smile, are incredible multi-taskers, and know all of their clients by name.

Post and Ship is open Monday thru Friday from 9:00 to 5:30, Saturday from 9:00 to 1:00, and closed on Sundays and Mexican holidays. Mail arrives from Laredo on Mondays and Thursdays. Sometimes it arrives in the late afternoon, and mail may not be sorted until the following day.

A standard size mail box costs 3,080 pesos per year or 1,940 for six months. Larger boxes are available, but are mostly used by local businesses.

They are very excited about their new location. The entire store has moved to Bugambilia 201 in between Laguna and Av. Camaron Sabalo. There is a Farmacia Moderna on the corner and they are just west of that. The best news is that Bugambilia is a two-way street with ample parking. If you are coming to the Golden Zone from the south, take the left at the light as though you were headed to the Hotel Playa and make your first right onto Bugambilia. If are coming from the north, slow down when you see DHL and Domino’s Pizza and be prepared to turn right at the aforementioned Farmacia Moderna.  They also have a Facebook Page.  Phone number is 916-4010 and email is postandship@prodigy.net.mx.

Finding a way to deal with the “business” of our lives while living abroad can be difficult. Some people forgo U.S. mail and favor all things electronic. But, a majority of people still like to receive mail. If you have struggled to find a way to receive your mail from abroad or just need to have some copies made, stop in and visit Ana and Melva. You won’t be sorry.

The Transience of Friendships in Mazatlán

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I’ve lived a lot of places: Wisconsin, the San Francisco Bay area, Tokyo, Kyoto, Hamamatsu, Salamanca, Mexico City, Kansas City… What has been a defining factor of friendships in Mazatlán for me has been transience. Maybe I’m unique, or maybe you’ve had similar experiences?

Many of the most interesting Mazatlecos I’ve met have been world travelers; their children often leave for school, marry and have children abroad, and the parents are then split between worlds. Quite a few of the expats we have met and grown to love here, even though full-timers, have gone home, moved nearer their grandchildren, or moved on to a new location; wanderlust is in their blood. Nationals love it here, but several of those we’ve become most fond of have been called to another city, transferred by their employers or moving because life here has gotten tough or taken a new turn.

In Tokyo or Mexico City, the people I met and loved, Japanese or foreign, tended to be settled there for life. Yes, there are plenty of born and bred Mazatlecos, or people who have lived here 30 years or more. But, somehow, I am able to quite easily count two hands’ worth of fingers of people I’ve loved and lost to moving in the mere eight years I’ve lived here.

There’s sadness in that, of course, but there are upsides as well. We can travel to visit these friends. We can stay in touch over the distance, and share glimpses into life in other areas. And, to me, it’s proof we are blessed here in Mazatlán with friendships with people who are intelligent, interesting and vibrant, people who embrace life fully and who see the world as their home.

One such beloved family we met through our son, Danny. Danny went to secundaria at Colegio Andes with another US American girl, Sierra, and her little brother, Kelton. Her father, Brian, taught there. Heidi, the Mom, works at El Cid, so we still get to see her occasionally, though she splits her time between here and her family in Portland. They moved because they wanted a different, better in their opinion, education for their kids. We miss them dearly. They were fun. They are fun. Adventurous. Curious. Crazy. Global minded. Outdoorsy. They were just a whole lot more fun when they lived here, close by, and we were able to join them for an adventure or to create some memories.

We saw the Samore family on a recent trip to Portland, and of course they come to Mazatlán to visit every once in a while. They’ll be here soon. You may know them and miss them, too.

This morning we were fortunate to receive a copy of an article in the school newspaper of the high school where Brian currently works. I want to share it with you, because it is a testament to the caliber of the people, the kind of weirdness and passion, we are privileged to be able to share space and time with here in Mazatlán. Although we miss them, we are so privileged to be able to call them friends. Whether you live here in Mazatlán, spend part of the year here, or are hoping to move here, we wish you wonderful friendships!