Terrific Evening of Old Mazatlán Photos and Stories

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I have never understood a society, or a city, that doesn’t value its history. How can we here in this gorgeous port city of Mazatlán, with its history of riches, high society from all over the world, such a diverse mix of cultures and trades, and interesting story after exciting story, and not have a historical museum?

We own quite a few books, in Spanish of course, on the history of Mazatlán. They are very good. We’ve attended previous events on the history of Mazatlán at the Archeological Museum. Greg has, for years, collected items (postcards, record albums, tourist flyers, letters) from Mazatlán’s history. Most of them he has purchased on e-bay, and he has a rotating collection displayed on one of our walls. Here’s his latest:

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1234998_200998880069821_407501431_nBut the Photo Expo last night was especially excellent. Why? The first ingredient was a terrific panel of knowledgable local historians: Mario Martini, Joaquin Hernandez, Luis Antonio Martínez Peña, Fernando Higuera, moderated by Guillermo Osuna. The second ingredient was a series of six photos of Old Mazatlán. As each photo was displayed, members of the panel took turns telling a story or two revolving around something in the photo. The third ingredient was a gorgeous old, very rustic room, with exquisitely tiled flooring and vigas overhead. Oh, there was also free beer, wine, water and soda. The evening was lovely, and the room was packed with interesting people. The evening was quite magical.

This morning we’ve already had several people contact us, asking if the exhibition is ongoing. Sadly, it is not. The grand opening/ribbon cutting was last Friday at SECTUR, and the main event was last night in a rustically beautiful room at the back of La Querencia. We definitely need space to display some of these photos and a bit of the history of our fair city!

Family member of a person in the photo?Last night, for example, I sat next to a gentleman who I later learned had purchased a certain photo of a group of young women standing in front of a classic car on the malecón in Olas Altas, with the burned-out ruins of Casa Echegurén on the hill in the background. My guess is that the photo includes the grandmother or great-grandmother of the guy who purchased it. How very cool is that?

The organizers of the event last night are a group of people called “Amigos de Mazatlán.” They host a page on Facebook, where Greg and I have long loved seeing the photos shared, and the comments posted by family members, friends, great-grandchildren… sharing memories of our beloved adopted home. We recently met two of the group’s key players, Fernando Higuera and Briza Sánchez, when we went down to Casa Canobbio to buy a CD of photos in support of the group’s efforts to build a photographic museum of old Mazatlán. They are extremely passionate, and a whole lot of fun, so next thing you know, we were helping to sponsor and working in support of last night’s event. I’ll post a few photos below. Click on any of them to enlarge or view a slideshow.

By the way, after the panel discussion, the photos were all put up for sale. And, even cooler than that, the money is going to the victims of the hurricane here in Sinaloa!

The goal is, hopefully, to have a Museum of Old Mazatlán. I trust the dream will become reality. You can help support this effort to preserve and promote the history of Mazatlán in several ways.

  1. If you are in Europe, the US or Canada, Asia, or South America, check out your local photo archives. Many of the historic photos of our city have come from photographers and collections abroad. During the revolution, many of the old photos were packed up and removed along with the wealthy families who populated our city.
  2. You can get involved with the group, helping to plan and conduct efforts to make the dream come true.
  3. Your donations are welcome, and the group is also selling CDs of photos in order to raise money.

Tributo a Maná, por Gaby

Lighting at Spectaculare

What a treat we had on Thursday night! 43 of Mazatlán’s best musicians played a Tribute to Maná, in a gorgeously loving effort to raise money for Gaby López, who is battling cancer.

Gaby sat at a center table, in her headscarf, surrounded by about twelve of her girlfriends. It was wonderful to watch all the hugs and well wishes extended to her throughout the evening. How could she not help but feel healed? The event took place at Spectaculare. I always love the lighting there, and Thursday night was no exception.

For a 120 peso entrance fee, we each got two drinks, comfy seats, excellent service and wonderful company at our table, for a show that was very well orchestrated. Band members and singers rotated for pretty much every song, so that by the end of the evening we felt as if we’d experienced dozens of different combinations. Below are some photos of the performers; click on any of them for a larger view.

In between sets, the organizers had slideshows of Gaby, her life, family and friends, as well as video clips containing well wishes from musicians and friends around the country. It was very touching. And especially cool when two members of the real Maná extended their encouragement via video.

It seemed there were several hundred people attending. There were also 300 peso/all-you-could-drink seats down front, but those were sparsely used, unfortunately. I put together a one-minute clip with a taste of some of the performances. You can view it at the bottom of this post. Enjoy!

Gaby, we don’t know you, but we hope you will recover soon: healthy and strong. Thank you for letting us share in this beautiful evening with you. Friends of Gaby: bless you. What a terrific event to orchestrate for a friend!

The Week of Small Miracles Continues…

I was cooking up some stir-fried rice, one of Danny’s favorite dishes, filled with good veggies, leftover chicken, and brown rice, when the handle broke off my big, heavy frying pan. The soldering had come undone. Heartbreak!

Now, if I were in the States, I’d probably throw it out. Up there I have an uncle who solders, but he’s been ill, and I really don’t know where I could take a frypan for repair. But, we are in Mazatlán. People repair and recycle here, thank goodness. I didn’t want to take the pan to anyone who might drill holes in the stainless steel, insert bolts and nuts, and thus ruin the frypan’s seal as well as its look and functionality.

We’d heard about Santana, a taller de soldadura, over between Casa del Campesino and the triangular tamalería — by the two Pemexes on Ejercito Méxicano. So, we gave it a shot. The next day when we were out running errands, we stopped in. Since there was no parking available right in front of the shop, I hopped out with the frypan, while Greg parked the car around the corner.

In the three minutes it took Greg to park and meet me in the shop, our frypan was already being repaired! Talk about service! I figured we’d have to leave it for a few days, as we do with shoe repair. But, he asked me if I’d wait, I said sure, and voilá. Click any of the photos below to enlarge the view.

You can see how basic the shop is. I was fascinated by the huge old horizontal drill press, which is possibly also a lathe, at the entrance. The soldering occurred by the back door to the patio. There were family photos and mementos all around. Such a quick, and pleasant, experience!

I know I couldn’t have replaced this heavy, huge frypan, affordably or easily, here in Mazatlán. A 50 peso repair bill and five minutes of my time, working with a kind, smiling and capable repairman, in a very cool blast-from-the-past workshop, was definitely a blessing.

 

Adventures in “La Comer”

Expats here call it “Mega.” Most of the locals I know call it “La Comer” or “Comercial Mexicana.” Either way, to me it’s a pretty boring place. I’m not a big shopper, I prefer the mercados to the supermarkets, and when there’s not a lot of variety in the offerings (fresh, local-grown or caught, unique), well, suffice it to say, Mega is not my favorite place in town.

So, we went grocery shopping there today, and we actually had a bit of excitement!

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First of all, we met one of my favorite painters, Maestro Antonio López Saenz. I’ve heard him speak several times, but until today I’d never met him. What a friendly, kind and gentle soul he seemed to be! Soft-spoken, warm, and hospitable. We spoke right there between the epazote and cilantro. I was finally able to make my request, which I’ve hoped for for several years now.

“Please, maestro, might you paint a painting of our malecón as the biggest gymnasium in the world? You know how every Mazatleco uses it: running, roller blading, walking, yoga, pushups, sit-ups, bicycling? It’s perhaps the world’s longest oceanside promenade, and it’s a popular free gym for so many. It would be a gorgeous painting! It would really capture the Mazatlán of today.”

He told me how the original malecón is really just the Olas Altas portion, and that this longer part down towards “La Comer” is all new. Then he and his colleague Victor shared some really exciting news!

From December of this year the Maestro will be issuing canvas prints of his paintings! He wants them to be affordable and accessible! Woo hoo! Can’t wait to possibly have a replica of a López Saenz on our walls! Bravo!

And, the excitement in La Comer didn’t stop there. Maybe I just haven’t been looking closely enough, but I saw several interesting looking products. Rather unbelievable that they were there, actually. These included sushi rice, sushi roll wrappers (soy paper), and sesame seeds in bright “rainbow” colors (yuk—artificial dyes, but fun). Slideshow below:

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Back in the dairy case, they are carrying wine sorbets, and even one that is flan-flavored!

Just when you thought supermarket shopping couldn’t get any more boring! 😉

La Nueva Generación/New Generation of Mazatlán Restaurants

We love seafood. Cevichefilete al ajocamarones a la diabla, callos de hacha…. all those terrific and typical dishes we have the pleasure of eating deliciously and cheaply here in Mazatlán. We acknowledge that it’s an incredibly spoiled thought even to have quickly pass through one’s mind, but sometimes we crave something a little different. We want something a little less “standard,” a little out of the ordinary.

We were in luck last spring when a group of new restaurants, run by a younger generation of Mazatlecos in their 20s and 30s, opened. The owners have traveled; they’ve lived and studied outside Mazatlán. They love our port city, and they are excited to take the “best of” what they like in Mazatleco food and prepare it in a way that creates something a little different. First they started adding mango, pineapple and coconut to the traditional ceviches. Then they added pastor spices to the grilled fish. Then they starting searing (hooray!) ahi with Asian sauces and sesame, and pretty soon, we had complete menus of a really innovative, fusion cuisine that are keeping our family very happy.

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Our favorite of these is the wonderfully named Barracruda’s (for those of you who don’t speak Spanish, the name is a play on words: barracuda, the fish, and “raw bar”). Run by a group of hipster surfer-types, the upscale beach-hut-in-suburbia is filled with young people, but the owners are friendly, outgoing and always very welcoming of our family. They serve up seared fresh tuna that is to die for, and ceviches, quesadillas, burritos and tacos unlike anything you’ve eaten. You will love it! Greg has even taken the guys there for compadre night, and those old-time Mazatlecos loved it, too. They serve wonderful tajin-rimmed micheladas, mixed with lime just the way we like them. Their service is fast and efficient and the prices are a real bargain. Sports fans will find some nice large flat screens as well.

The one downside for us is that they are usually crowded. Fortunately they are building a second location right across the street (Avenida de la Marina at Durango 335, north of Insurgentes about seven blocks), which they hope to have open in November. While we speak Spanish with them, you can be confident the owners and most of the staff speak English quite well. Many of you no doubt are already fans, but if you haven’t checked out Barracruda’s, please do.

149045_554355397938192_36127251_nThe great news is that just down the street is another of our favorites: Todos Somos Santos (“We are All Saints”). Todos Santos is much more open, so in the summer you get more natural breeze blowing through. It’s a much bigger place, so you don’t have the crowding issues (although it is also very popular, especially with families on the weekends). They have just added really gorgeous new roofing, to keep the rain and sun at bay during this time of year. The owners and staff here are extremely hospitable. The crowd here is also young, but with a whole lot of families and groups. You will love it.

The chef (Manny) speaks English perfectly, having worked a long time in Texas. He makes up a variety of fresh sauces daily that will blow your mind. Then he puts them over fresh seafood mixed with avocado, mango, coconut, pineapple… You can have tuna chicharrón or callos/scallops like you have not had them before. The tostadas are huge and filling. Waiters here will bring out funny hats to amuse you as they sing happy birthday to a nearby guest, so you get a bit of the party vibe, too. Compared to Barracruda’s, Todos Santos has more cooked food and more “entree” type items. Whichever you choose, you won’t leave hungry.  It’s on Avenida de la Marina 800, in El Toreo. You can’t miss it — it’s right on the corner behind Soriana, bright and airy.

Portions at both of these places are huge, and the prices are generally 75-100 pesos per entree.

399866_138666922986126_1737127503_nLeaving Avenida de la Marina and going down into the Golden Zone, in a place that has housed several different restaurants the past few years, is F.I.S.H. (Fresh International Seafood House). You will find it behind Rico’s coffee and Mary’s Hamburger in the spot where Mr. Ace’s stood for so long. The atmosphere here is completely different. Whereas Todos Santos and Barracruda’s are warm, friendly and colorful, F.I.S.H. is modern minimalist — clean whites and shiny aluminums. Here you’ll find wild rice, raisins mixed in the mango salsa, lobster and oyster po-boys, salmon burgers, kabobs, french fries in the burritosceviches served to you out of a mold, happy hour from 5 – 10 pm and live music a few times a week. F.I.S.H. has indoor, air-conditioned space, in addition to the terrace. It was started by one of the original founders of The Fish Market. We are happy to see the creative menu, but personally feel the execution is a work in progress and the atmosphere is still trying to find its way. Pricing in this restaurant has some real bargains and some over-priced basics. It’s a cool addition to our local restaurant scene, and hopefully the kinks will work out over time (this is the most recent of the four to have opened).

Overall, we love the trend. In most cities a radical influx like this would cause the old-line traditional restaurants to take a look at their menu, service and atmosphere and decide if they want to make a competitive tweak here and there. We have not seen this play out yet. Is this because they are waiting to see if these young guns will make a go of it, or are they happy to attract a different crowd? Only time will tell. Until then, we are happy to have some real variety available and will continue to enjoy all that Mazatlán has to offer in the way of seafood restaurants.

UPDATE 2 SEPTEMBER: Since we published this, Muelle 12 owners have confirmed that the restaurant will NOT reopen to the public. It will instead become a bar for Pacífico Beer, at least according to them. They have opened a new place in the GZ called XiBalba (behind Casa Maya/across from Hotel Las Flores). To prevent confusion, we’ve deleted the original Muelle 12 portion of this post.