“Chicken Breakfast” 2014!

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Last year we fed 2300 families, in Mazatlán’s poorest colonias: La Felicidad, Ampliación Felipe Angeles, Universo, Quinta Chapalita, Nuevo Milenio, Jardines del Valle, Villa Tutuli, Nuevo Cajeme, Montebello, Francisco I. Madero, Ladrillera, El Basurón, El Conchi 2, and the Ex-Hacienda de Urias. It’s a Christmas tradition dating back to 1990, spearheaded by our friend Yolanda Medina. It is the absolute BEST way we’ve found to celebrate the holiday here in Mazatlán. We are so grateful for this annual opportunity—locals and expats coming together, working shoulder to shoulder, to reach out and bring a smile to those less fortunate. I’ve met so many wonderful people through Desayuno de los Pollos, and have witnessed such strength of spirit. 2014 will be our eighth year participating. You can view photos of last year’s event here.

How did this whole effort start? And why in the world is it called “chicken breakfast” or desayuno de los pollos?

“It was Christmas Eve, and daughter María Yolanda’s days were numbered. Yolanda and her late husband, Modesto, were in no mood to eat, let alone have a Christmas dinner with all the fixings. But that night, a woman knocked on the hospital room door and peeked to see if there was someone with the patient. She came in to hand Yolanda and Modesto a box with a hot Christmas dinner — roll and all — and told them Merry Christmas and that God was with them. Yolanda never forgot that gesture.”

Yolanda, her husband and extended family started repeating that gesture for others, and over the past 25 years the project has morphed into two main parts:

  1. The handing out of whole chickens, 10 days’ worth of food, plus clothes, toys and candy, to inhabitants of Mazatlán’s poorest communities. This event takes place each December 24th.
  2. A fundraiser breakfast (not chicken! Usually eggs, chilaquiles, beans, breads, juice, coffee), held to raise money to buy the food. This event takes place each year in early December or late November.

Read the full story of the Chicken Breakfast here.

Would you like to join in this incredible effort? There are so many ways you can help!

  • Attend the fundraiser breakfast on the Saturday the 29th of November starting at 8:30 am (serving till 10:00 or so), at the cruise ship port (API on Agenda Emilio Barragán). Tickets are 150 pesos per person and include a full, home-cooked breakfast, a holiday bazaar of handicrafts and baked goods, a silent as well as a live auction, and a whole lot of socializing and fun. You can buy tickets by contacting me, Dianne Hofner Saphiere, or one of the many other people around town who sell them (Yolanda, Jorge and Isa Medina; Jeanette Leraand, Barbara Narvesian, Lana Reid…). If you can’t attend the breakfast, you can still make a donation. 100% of what you donate will go directly to helping, as everyone involved is volunteer. You can browse photos of last year’s breakfast here.
  • Help us gather great things for the live and silent auctions! Each year Jorge Medina makes at least one wrought-iron table for auction. We often have artwork, and many gift certificates to hotels, restaurants and shops around town. Last year we had an original artwork by Armando Nava, and a 2-night all-inclusive stay at El Cid Marina in the silent auction. You can view just a few of last year’s great prizes here. Many thanks to everyone who donates to support this cause! If you know a business that would like to participate, you can download blank gift certificates here. Once you fill it out, be sure to get it to me, Isa or one of the other key people so we can put it into the silent auction. Thank you!
  • Be a cook! Cut vegetables the night before the breakfast (November 28th), or be one of the cooks on the morning of the 29th! We’ve had several of our cooks move away, so we are in need. It’s a great way to learn to make some Mexican staples, and to meet some new local friends.
  • Help set up and clean up the breakfast (setting out plastic chairs and tables the night of the 28th, and stacking them up after the breakfast on the 29th). My husband Greg is still gimpy, so we will be short-handed this year and could use your help.
  • Help pack food into smaller packets (e.g., bulk rice and beans into baggies), during the week prior to December 24th. A group gathers at the Medina family home in Quince Letras nearly every evening.
  • Gather gently used or new toys and candy, to hand out to the children on the 24th. Last year we had so few toys, the sadness on the kids’ faces just broke my heart.
  • Gather your gently used clothing, shoes, blankets, and jackets to hand out on the 24th. Please get these to us ahead of time, so we can sort things in preparation for the big day.
  • Bring your truck or large vehicle on the 24th, to help us transport the frozen chickens, foodstuffs, and all the Santa-hatted people out to our poorer colonias. Again, please let us know ahead of time, so we can plan. Thank you!
  • Join us on the 24th, to be in one of the six or seven caravans of cars and trucks that go to the poor outskirts of the city to hand out food and goodies! Directions can be found here.
  • Donate any amount that moves you. We are all volunteers, so 100% of what you gift goes to help those who need it. Just click on the button on the upper right side of this VidaMaz blog.

It is a terrific event, and we very much look forward to joining in with those who participate in this annual tradition, as well as welcoming those who are new to it! If you have children or grandchildren with you, it’s especially important to teach them to reach out in this way, and to let them see how simply other people live. We look forward to having you join us.

The Cuauhtemoc Tall Ship in Mazatlán

DSC_0266Quick! Do you know who Cuauhtémoc was? If you are an expat in Mexico, you should. Check your answer at the end of this post. The gorgeous tall ship that anchored in our bay this afternoon is named the Cuauhtémoc. She is scheduled to put into port in an official ceremony at the docks at 10:00 am on Sunday.

The Cuauhtémoc is a training vessel of the Mexican Navy with two main purposes: to train officer cadets in seamanship, navigation, leadership, and teamwork, and to spread the message of peace and goodwill from Mexico around the world. It sails with 55 officers, 74 cadets/midshipmen, and 120 enlisted crew members. The Cuauhtémoc was built in Bilbao, Spain in 1982, in a style similar to a 1930s German design. She has sailed around the world for the past 32 years, logging over one million kilometers. She is 90 meters long by 12 meters wide, with a sail area of 25, 500 square feet.

The ship and her crew have won many awards, including the prestigious Cutty Sark Trophy, which it received twice—during the Races for Great Tall Ships in both 1998 and 2000. In 2002, the ship won the Boston Tea Pot, a trophy awarded by the International Sailing Training Association ISTA for its nonstop sail of 1,342.7 nautical miles in 124 hours, at an average speed of 10.83 knots, setting the second-best record in the history of this competition. This record is better than all other ships in Europe and America that have received the trophy in the 12 years since then. It’s tough to get clear shots of a gorgeously lit ship floating and bouncing at night in the bay! My respects to those who do, and please teach me! Here you’ll see photos of the afternoon of its arrival (Saturday), sunset that evening, Saturday night, and Sunday’s sunrise. Click on any photo to see it larger or view a slideshow.

Sunset after arrival
Saturday
Saturday
Saturday night
Saturday night
Sinaloa Tourism photo
Sinaloa Tourism photo
Sinaloa Tourism photo
Sunrise on Sunday
Sunrise on Sunday

It arrived in Mazatlán this afternoon, Saturday November 8th, and anchored itself out in the middle of the bay. Oh is it gorgeous! It is supposed to put into port tomorrow, Sunday, though I’m unsure of the time. There will be tours while it’s docked here in town, so don’t miss out! Tours are Sunday and Monday from 11 am to 10 pm, and Tuesday and Wednesday 11 am to 5 pm. The Cuauhtémoc will remain docked here until its departure on Thursday, November 13th at 10 am. It last visited Mazatlán in 2005.

Track the Cuauhtémoc’s current position

History of the Cuauhtémoc by the Secretaría de Marina

UPDATE ON SUNDAY NOV. 9th

We had the BEST time this morning! We followed the ship as it made its way to the port. It was accompanied by loads of smaller boats. As it rounded the lighthouse hill heading into the port, there were still no midshipmen up on the masts. But as they headed for the breakwater, the masts were gradually filled, and by the time the ship approached us on the outer edge of the breakwater, the masts were filled with cadets! It was a sight to behold. We were accompanied by ten or so other people looking to get good photos. I hooted and hollered and welcome them to Mazatlán, and quite a few of the cadets waved back at me. Oh so cool! As they got into the dock, we heard them singing the Marina anthem. So awesome! Because we climbed out on the breakwater, and I didn’t have the right shoes, we missed most of the opening ceremony back at the dock, but it was so worth it! Just to have them wave and know we were some of the first to welcome them in! So cool!

Our mermaid and the Cuauhtémoc
Three islands and the Cuauhtémoc
Midshimen up on the masts
Me taking the mermaid pic 😉
Rounding El Faro hill–no one on the masts
The gang of photographers on the breakwater
Everyone’s up on the masts as it heads into port
We hadn’t seen our friends in quite a while. Nice to reconnect!

Cuauhtemoc-03Cuauhtémoc was the last Aztec emperor, who was executed by Hernán Cortés, Spanish conquistador, in 1525. Quite a few Mexican boys, streets and plazas are named in his honor.

Día de los Muertos, Mazatlán 2014

La Pareja: Together in life and death

La Pareja: Together in life and death

What a welcome home! The callejoneada (alley parade) this year for Day of the Dead in Mazatlán was the best ever, if I dare say so! It was a perfect evening weather-wise: clear skies highlighted by a gorgeous crescent moon, and warm weather that was cool enough for comfort. More people and especially more complete families participated, more dressed up, the beer flowed more freely and was better organized, and the main costumed characters were spectacular!

This year’s event was a tribute to Maestro Rigo Lewis, the long-time creator of our unbelievably gorgeous Carnavál carrozas/floats, so the callejoneada for Day of the Dead had a Carnavalesque air to it this year; it was a beautiful fusion of two local traditions for which Mazatlán has international fame. Kudos and thanks to CULTURA and to the Centro Municipal de Arte staff and students! By the way, I’ve been told we will STILL this year AND next year in the Carnavál parade will have carrozas designed by Maestro Rigo! His legacy lives on, thanks to his hard work and passion.

Click on any of the images below to see it larger or to view a slideshow.

I loved how this Katrina had so many faces, thanks to Carnaval/DOD masks.
Ghostly revelers; I really enjoyed this fortuitous pic!
So young and gorgeous…pirates die, too.
Dancers can die young as well…. Such a festive celebration of our ancestors and departed friends this year.
The wee ones are always the cutest, particularly this sister and brother enjoying dinner at La Tramoya.
Mazatlecos! The main reason most of us so love it here! THIS is joie de vivre!
The free beer was given out from five different carts this year, and refilled a few times over the route. This year pitchers were used rather than everyone waiting for the tap.
Mother and daughter beauties.
Spinning fire dancers
More ghostly revelers, due to the rapid movement and the low light. I personally love it!
We had one very scary katrina this year!
Handsome lads to be departing this world so young
Maestro Rigos photo crowned this former Carnavál queen
Closeup of the tribute to Maestro Rigo Lewis.
This aerial of the crowd from CULTURA
The setting, our gorgeous architecture, is such the star of Day of the Dead
Jesters apparently retain their sense of humor in the afterlife.

I am sorry to have been so long away from this page, but after seven years it was wonderful to reconnect this summer with family and friends north of the border in a lengthier, more meaningful way. We were able to celebrate my aunt’s 80th birthday, be with my sister-cousin through surgery, and settle Danny into his dorm room and college life. For that I am ever grateful! Plus I had a month of work in Europe, where I met incredible people and thoroughly enjoyed myself. Of course we missed home, and our friends and family here, terribly.

Saturday night felt like our personal welcome home party, as we hugged loved ones everywhere we went. Funniest, to me, was how often I had to ask, “Who are you?” as the costumes were so excellent that they disguised identities quite effectively!

Apparently you can, indeed, take it with you to the grave!
Lovely people and gorgeous setting!
The hat, the parasol, gloves, dress and makeup were incredibly sophisticated.
So hard to have fun, you know… 😉
Great photo opps for posing our friends
As usual, some of the makeup was just unbelievably detailed, with full costumes to match!
Groups of good friends having makeup parties and then enjoying the night’s festivities
Every year a different costume and makeup, all gorgeous
Soon good to reconnect with good friends!
Smiles, smiles and more smiles. The warmth of this town is infectious.

I can’t imagine not dancing in the parade with the live music, if one is able to do so, as it is just so much fun! There are, however, many people who line the route to watch and enjoy, as well as those who camp out at front-row-seats in bars and restaurants to watch the parade pass by.

Terrific live music
The moon over the stilt-walkers
Even the beer servers were made up this year
Dad and daughter
The moon again
Life in the Plaza Machado after the callejoneada was a sight to behold as well. I unfortunately can’t tell you anything about the event inside the theater, as though we waited in line at the Machado for about 90 minutes to get tickets, they ran out long before it was our turn.
We met one woman who was here in town to celebrate her 50th birthday, all the way from Washington DC with two of her best girlfriends. They obviously brought complete Day of the Dead costumes with them for their holiday! We saw store-bought costumes, handmade costumes, traditional and modern versions, and fortunately there were many of us who were still alive and un-costumed to enjoy the rest!
50th birthday girl from DC on the right, her girlfriend on the left
Loved her approach!
Modern costuming makes things much easier!
A modern version of a costume. I need this dress!
Getting in on the fun
My absolute favorite moment of the evening, and there were so many awesome ones to choose from, was as the callejoneada entered the plazuela. Just in front of the theater, a group of young men started cheering loudly, dancing and jumping around. “Güero! “Güero!” they were shouting. As I turned around to see what all the happy commotion was about, I realized they were cheering on my partner, Greg. He was dancing happily, having been soaked with beer head to toe earlier in the evening.
31.DSC_0378Guero!
CULTURA TV is going to stream it’s video of the callejoneada this Wednesday, November 5, at 5:00 pm local time. Be sure to check it out! There are many more aspects of Day of the Dead in Mazatlán; the callenjoneada is just one activity. This blog post can give you a broader idea for your trip. I know my favorites include making an altar to remember my departed family members and friends, as well as remembering them in Mass each year. We hope you’ll join us so we can dance with you all next year!

5 Things Mexicans Say to Avoid the Word “No”

5 Things Mexicans Say to Avoid the Word “No”. Excellent article by Susannah Rigg.

Fuerte 31 de Marzo

Tell anyone you’re heading over to the fort, and odds are they won’t know what you’re talking about. El Fuerte 31 de Marzo, built in 1894 to commemorate the battle against the French 30 years after it happened, lies neglected and largely inaccessible beside Casa del Marino, another building in huge need of saving. But this article is about the fort.

On Thursday night this week several groups of concerned citizens united forces, including Toto Tirado, Mario Martini, Gustavo Gama, and Fernando Higuera, Friends of Old Mazatlán, Friends of the Fort, among many others, in an effort to restore the property and use it for public education and entertainment. They have had architectural plans drawn up by Arturo Garduño that involve not just the fort but the entire Paseo Claussen area.

Marco Antonio Tirado
Dianne, Greg and Gustavo Gama
Dianne, Arturo Garduño and Mario Martini
Former mayor Alejandro Camacho, Fernando Higuera, and Greg

Plans for the fort itself include two salons of history on the Revolution and the Reforma, restoring and protecting the remaining walls, base and ceiling, so that the space is accessible to the public and usable for events. There are plans for an esplanade at the entrance, complete with a monument to Mazatlecos who died protecting our city. Click below to view the project’s video proposal.

Vídeo Presentación PROYECTO PASEO OLAS ALTAS por arqagu

With its setting right on the water, overlooking the three islands in our bay, restoration of the fort would be a huge asset to Mazatlán, and a perfect way to interest people in learning about our history!

The event Thursday night was attended by 200-250 people, I estimate, and included three wonderful musical acts, the debut of the video outlining the proposal, and some terrific fireworks. They are selling a booklet with DVD for 120 pesos each to raise funds, and of course will welcome donations as well.

Sebastian
Penelope Luna
Los Hermanos Osuna

Personally, I think getting the vendors off the malecón and down onto the Glorieta Sanchez Taboada, as shown in the video proposal, can happen next week! Let’s do it rather than wait any longer!