5 Ways to Combat Mazatlecan Zombies

dsc_0363Day of the Dead is the main holiday in Mazatlán this time of year. Children and young adults, however, also celebrate the import—Halloween. Young children dress up and go Trick-or-Treating to shopping centers, while young adults dress in sexier costumes and head to the clubs. In our blue-skied, beach side community, we are thus normally spared the dangerous threat of many of the Halloween monsters from up north, such as witches, werewolves, vampires, mummies, devils and—zombies. The key word is “normally.”

Due to the unrelenting passion of a small group of zealots, Mazatlán has had the misfortune to have fallen prey to a zombie invasion for the past four years.

I put on my anthropologist’s hat today, as well as my bravery, to risk life and limb in order to gain insight into these most mysterious and menacing of characters. Gratefully I’ve lived to tell the tale—barely. My life is owed to the one brave survivor who fought the zombies off and defended both my life and our fair port.

Below I will share with you five key insights I gained today during my perilous anthropological investigations. I trust they might better help us combat the zombie invasion should it happen again next year. Click on any photo to enlarge it, or to view a slideshow.

dsc_0233

Isaac, Yezil and Wert Lovehorror

1. You may be deluded into thinking that there are no zombies in Mazatlán, that only catrinas frequent our fair city. No! Once a year, zombies roam the malecón! They’ve done so every Halloween for four years. It’s become an untenable menace! The leader of the Zombie Walk Mazatlán is Wert Lovehorror. His wife Yezil and their eldest son, Izack play key roles in the horrible happening. It is they who are responsible for this threat.

2. You may think of zombies as angry—grimacing, screaming, groaning and glaring. Mazatlecan zombies, however, smile—even their muerte se pasa sin llorar (their death passes without crying, playing on the Corrido de Mazatlán). They also pose for pictures and freely give interviews. Do not be misled! Despite their charms, they are highly treacherous!

3. When humans are in short supply, zombies eat ice cream! I feared for the ice cream vendor when he approached the invaders, but he was fearless. He assured me that zombies could be diverted away from human fare by playing upon their love of ice cream. And, sure enough, he knew what he was talking about! Our local zombies seem to have no clear preference regarding the type of ice cream they’ll go for, however—they devoured their frozen prey with gusto in all sorts of different flavors. If a zombie approaches you, get out the ice cream! They also talk on cell phones, so you can hand them one as a diversion.

4. Mazatlecan zombies are kind! They think of others and give to the needy. Every zombie or survivor who participates in the zombie walk is asked to bring despensas/food stuffs for Hambretón. Hambretón’s annual food drive, by the way, concludes next Saturday, November 5, in Sendero Plaza from 11:00am to 2:00pm. Join them there! And bring some canned goods or dry food! Do not let this kindness fool you…

5. Zombies apply makeup free of charge, and give out lessons and tips on how to make disgusting things. Need blood? Honey mixed with red food coloring; absolutely sickening. Need peeling skin? Mix white glue in with your face paint, and it’ll look like you have leprosy. Want to have no eyes? Cover them with tulle fabric. How about the ugliest, slimiest-looking intestine you might want to have falling out of your gashed-open stomach? Gelatin and pantyhose!

Will you fall for their tricks? Will you join the ranks of the zombies next year? Or will you be one of the survivors, and fight to defend Mazatlán?

HoliFest Mazatlán!!!!

©24.DSC_0227Bollywood movies, YouTube videos and Facebook photos have taught most of us about Holi, the Hindu holiday welcoming spring, the “festival of colors.” The vibrantly colored Gulal powders are said to signify the triumph of good over evil. Click on any photo to enlarge it or view a slideshow.

Thanks to Karina Barcena and a core crew of helpers, Mazatlán has been blessed these last two years to have its own HoliFest. This year we had a group of people join us from Durango, and it included an Indian national who studied yoga with Iyengar himself.

Taking place yesterday on the grounds of the Convention Center, the HoliFest Mazatlán event was attended by 2000 people, according to the organizers. Participants represented a huge diversity of folk: babes in arms through to grandparents, groups of friends and entire families. It ROCKED! The event included a guided meditation, a yoga class, demonstration, live Indian-style music with Inda and Yani of Kirtan, live reggae, and lots of dancing. And, by the way, it also included just a few colors!

I’ll let the photos speak for themselves. Be SURE to attend this event next year, planned for April 2017!

 

 

Reenactments of the Crucifixion On Good Friday

12804153_1107633985955034_1329244983_n

Photo from Fernando Barraza

Religious tourism is such a powerful way to experience a culture, its history, people, and places. We’ve so enjoyed traveling throughout Mexico, including Oaxaca, Barrancas del Cobre, ZacatecasGuanajuato, and Michoacán to participate in sacred events. Easter is the holiest of holidays in the Roman Catholic calendar, and Mazatlán and its nearby small towns do a lot to commemorate Easter.

Celebrations normally begin on Holy Thursday (March 24, 2016) with foot washing in the evening, and continue on Good Friday (March 25, 2016) with a reenacting of the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. Here in Mazatlán most parishes participate in these events; just contact your local parish to confirm time and place.

One of the biggest reenactments here in town has traditionally been PAJUMA (Pascua Juveníl de Mazatlán), a three-day diocesan event that takes place in the baseball stadium. On Good Friday the kids reenact the crucifixion of Christ in the stadium and then, still fully costumed, process silently from the stadium at about 5:00 pm, to the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception downtown, passing by the Aquarium, along the malecón, the Fisherman’s Monument, and the pangas in Playa Norte. The procession then turns left and goes down through Plaza Zaragoza to the cathedral. There are not many places in the world you can see a Way of the Cross enacted along the oceanfront! I’ve called them and messaged them, but am unable to confirm if it will be the same schedule this year.

Since Mazatlán’s beaches get so very crowded, and the traffic doesn’t permit us to get around easily, Semana Santa is also a wonderful time to get out of town. This year, we’ll be spending Holy Week up around Los Mochis, to celebrate with the friends we made during the Konti celebrations a couple of years ago. But you do not have to go far to participate in some really incredible religious tourism celebrations. Why not spend a few days, and really get to know one of our region’s small towns and their traditions?

Reenactments of the crucifixion traditionally start at 11:00 am and continue until Jesus’ death, liturgically at 3:52 pm. Crucifixions (they don’t actually nail anyone here, just hang them up with ropes, which is still a difficult feat for those crucified) are held in:

  • Chametla (Rosario; 100 km from MZT)
  • Malpica (Concordia; 38 km from MZT)
  • Matatán (Rosario; 82 km from MZT)
  • San Ignacio (111 km from MZT)
  • Teacapán (Escuinapa; 130 km from MZT)

San Ignacio also conducts a Procession of Silence on Friday night at 7:00 pm. Cosála has one, too. I highly recommend that you avoid driving in the mountains at night; better to spend the night.

Of particular interest to me this year will be the reenactment in Chametla, as my friend who is a favorite teacher to so many, Fernando Barraza, is directing the event. It is also the opposite direction from some of the troubles that have sadly been happening again lately in the mountains.

The celebration in Chametla this year is entitled “Calvario.” The play will involve over 60 actors who will walk over two kilometers, beginning on the main street, just down from the cathedral in front of the tostada stand called “Mangazo” or “El Chombi.” From there the procession will wind though town—it takes a different route each year—ending with the crucifixion this year on the hill in front of the cemetery.

If you go, I urge you to spend the night there or in nearby Pueblo Mágico, El Rosario. There is terrific hiking around the area, and lots to see; make a nice weekend of it.

Happy Easter!

Miss Universe Carnavál Mazatlán

5442_1701570033394960_4368600050915917126_nIf you support diversity, particularly LGBT causes; if you would feel good about helping a talented eight-year old girl who is very sick; or if you’d just enjoy a terrific old-fashioned drag queen show and contest, you are in for a treat! It’s part of what Carnavál is all about!

Miss Universo Carnavál Mazatlán will be held tomorrow night, Tuesday, February 2nd, starting shortly after 8:30 pm. The pageant will take place at Castillo de LuLu, Aquiles Serdán 60 (the same street Immigration is on, the salón is just farther down the street, off Carnavál).

LuLu

I attended this event last year, and we had a whole lot of fun! The people are wonderful, and it’s for a great cause. A lady will sell sodas at the venue, but the good news is that the event is BYOB: bring any drink you’d like and enjoy!

The group Belleza con Causa/Beauty with a Purpose does charity work and teaches acceptance, tolerance and diversity. Of course I LOVE what they do! They conduct this annual event and dedicate the proceeds to charity. In 2016 the money will go to help eight-year old Vidacsi, who is very ill and who, I am told, will sing at the event. According to Susie Morgan, “They have the biggest hearts of anyone I know. PLEASE come and show your love and support!”

I am honored and excited to have been asked to be a judge tomorrow night. The event usually includes a couple of performances, and the pageant itself includes the queen aspirants modeling both cocktail and evening dresses, and answering a question. Three queens will be crowned: Miss Universo, Señorita, and Rostro Carnavál/Face of Carnaval. Miss Universo Carnaval Mazatlan 2015, Fany Hernandez, and Miss Barrios Mazatlán 2015, Hanya Montiel, will be present.

12573828_10207601471662284_725758323174276340_n

Tickets cost 50 pesos and are available at the door. I hope to see you there! Please know that Belleza con Causa is also available for parties and events; yet another option in our very talented city.

Farm to Table 2016—Unbelievably Better than the First!

©08.DSC_0308The Farm to Table is absolutely the best food event of the year, IMHO. Ok, Delfos’ Cuerpo Gourmet is really cool, too, and it involves performance art as well as good food in a great setting. But nothing beats great food and awesome friends in the fresh air and sunshine on a nice cool day! FTT took place on Sunday, 20 minutes north of Mazatlán, at Chuy Lizárraga’s organic farm in El Recreo. The farm is just off the highway, at kilometer 21 heading north on the toll road towards Culiacán. All 150 or so of us absolutely had a MARVELOUS time!

The day didn’t start out so great. I was so excited to have our son, Danny, home from school for Farm to Table this year. We planned to go together—along with a large group of friends with kids his age—and it was to be a wonderful way to celebrate one last hurrah as a family before he left today. Alas, Danny got sick, and had to cancel out on Sunday morning. So, we all went and had a good time, while he stayed home alone on his last day, suffering. 😦

The day fortunately ended up wonderfully. Danny felt better this morning, and I yet again realized how very blessed we are with wonderful, talented, interesting friends. What an absolutely spectacular day we had! Thank you all for joining us! And for bringing your heartfelt smiles and laughter!

The event featured seven food courses prepared on site by seven chefs—two from Culiacán and the rest from our own beloved port. In addition to the excellent cuisine, we had all-we-could-drink cucumber-mint margaritas, red and white wine, and Mazatlán’s own micro-brew, Tres Islas . So, what was on the menu, and who prepared it?

  1. Welcome cocktail—those cucumber-mint margaritas made with Mazatlán’s own Los Osuna—prepared by Chef Alistair Porteous, Water’s Edge
  2. Green ceviche—shrimp, mahi, avocado, cilantro, parsley, garlic, chilaca and anaheim chile pesto—by Chefs Gabriel Ocampo and Luis Vargas, FISH
  3. Tres Islas micro-brew—Belgian-style, amber color, light body, dry finish, notes of fruits and spices—by Brewmaster Edvin Jonsson
  4. Dual temperature salad—grilled eggplant and portobello, squash that had been roasted in the ground, tomato trilogy and sweet baby bell peppers with a cranberry, raspbery and balsamic vinaigrette—by Chef Daniel Soto, El Caprichito Mio
  5. Traditional risotto—on a bed of huitlachoche/corn truffles, with radish garnish, parmesan crust, and tempura zucchini blossoms—by Enrique Freyre, Raggio Cucina Casual
  6. My favorite: grilled sea bass—in a smoked tomatillo sauce topped with seafood gratin—by Chef Luis Osuna of Cayenna
  7. Greg’s favorite: chamorro/pork shoulder rib—braised with red wine, star anise, garlic, cumin and thyme—by Chef Alistair Porteous, Water’s Edge
  8. Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc from Chucaro, along with hibiscus tea
  9. Fresh fruit and cheese petit fours, plus incredible breads—by Susan Reynolds, Miel Fresh Baked Goods
  10. Dessert coffee—organic Chiapas espresso with a spiced date pure over vanilla ice cream, topped with toasted almonds and coconut—by Marianne Bisotti of Rico’s Café

This was the second Farm to Table that’s been held, and I’m told it will now be an annual event. Thank goodness! We sat at long tables covered with white linen and decorated with sunflowers, in the middle of a green pepper field. We were entertained with saxophone music and a raffle, and were able to purchase the centerpieces to take home. The proceeds from a silent auction at the end, with LOADS of wonderful gift baskets, all went to Floreser.

Are you wondering who organized this event? Our thanks go to geniuses Alastair Porteous, Sarah Emerson and Chuy Lizárraga for the vision. Though, of course, execution is thanks to a huge team of talented and passionate people!

If you want to get one of the limited number of tickets for this event next year, get your name on a list with any of the participating chefs/restaurants now. BLESS YOU ALL who made this event happen!

PS: is your mouth watering? Want more? Read about the first FTT here.