Tag Archives: Sinaloa

Oyster Divers in Mazatlán/Los Ostioneros

VictorToday we had breakfast with Victor. He is an oyster diver here in Mazatlán, and has been for 33 years. His brother, Javier, has been diving for oysters for 28 years. Their father before them was an oyster diver for 52 years.

There were 12 divers late this morning on Playa Camarón, just off Valentino’s/Fiesta Land, and they were all family: brothers, uncles, nephews, cousins.

Victor told us there are at least ten locations or oyster reefs around town that are good for diving. He told us they start work about 8 or 8:30 each day, diving till 10:30 or 11. Each diver makes what he makes; they are not a cooperative. A normal haul — one fill of the net in one of their inner tubes — is about 50 kg. They pack the oysters into green mesh bags that weigh about 23 kg each. Those bags wholesale for about 400 pesos locally.

For our breakfast we were charged 30 pesos (about US$2) for five oysters shucked fresh from the water as we watched. Fresh limes and bottled salsa were available, as well as plastic stools on which to sit while we ate.

Victor explained to us that they throw the shucked oyster shells back into the ocean in order to increase the harvest: that the shells have larvae on them, and they will replant and grow. He also told us about how they have a forced holiday every summer, when the veda is in place — when it’s illegal to dive for oysters. That’s why September is so often called “Septi-hambre,” the hungry month, because it comes after they’ve had three months of no oyster income.

I asked Victor how long he stays under water when he dives. He said if the water is about three meters deep, they stay down about 40 seconds, hammering on the rock to get the oysters loose. If it’s deeper water, they may stay down as few as 20 seconds at a time. Based on my observations, I’d say he underestimates.

He told us that sometimes tourists like to come out diving with them. They bring underwater cameras, and ask the guys to teach them how to oyster. He thinks it’s cool that they want to take home with them such a souvenir: a new skill, a new experience.

Below is a slideshow with a few more photos. ¡Gracias, Victor y familia!

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Thank You, Colonia San Antonio & Familia Medina, for Making Our Christmas So Special

We had a WONDERFUL and blessed time this December 24th, thanks to soooo so many good people. This post will tell you a bit about why. (NOTE: MANY thanks to terrific photographer and friend, Brian Samore, for sharing many of the photos below.)

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Since 2007 (see photos of 12-year old Danny, above) we have been participating in the Desayuno de los Pollos or “Breakfast of the Chickens.” It has come to define our Christmas each year; a completely, utterly delightful tradition. If you’re a regular reader here, you know that each year over 2000 whole chickens, a week’s worth of kitchen essentials (despensas including beans, flour, coffee, oil…), gently used clothes, new toys and candy are handed out to people who could most use the help in Mazatlán.

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This year’s routes

This year was very special for us for a few reasons.

  1. First, I was able to participate in handing out the tickets for the pollos and despensas, prior to the “big day.” This meant that I was able to meet the community leaders as well as at least one representative of many of the families we’d be sharing with, including visiting with them in their homes. It was a WONDERFUL day that I will never, ever forget. Thank you, Yolanda, for including me, and thank you to all the people in San Antonio who so graciously let us into your homes!
  2. I was invited to lead a group on the morning of December 24th for the first time. Due to family illness and travel schedules, some of the regular leaders were not able to attend this year. So, I was asked to step in. I learned a lot and loved every second.
  3. Thirdly and also incredibly awesomely, we had the good fortune and privilege to be joined by quite a few new friends and blog readers on this terrific day, as well as friends who’ve now made this effort part of their family’s Christmas tradition! Thank you all!

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Normally we travel out to the edge of town, where there are no paved roads. Until this year, there has been no electricity, no gas, no water. This year, we went to Colonia San Antonio. This neighborhood is only two years old and is already home to 750 families! It is growing so very quickly. And, thanks to the community and to the proactivity of one woman in particular (La Maestra, in slideshow above), this area has electricity, many have propane tanks, and there are several large water tanks or tinacos on site.

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So, where to start? Photos of the wonderful people with whom we shared Christmas?

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Photos of their homes, reminding us how lucky most who read this blog are, and our duty to help build a more inclusive, respectful, equitable world?

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How about photos of the incredible gardens some of the people in this community have planted, to provide themselves sustenance, greenery, and a pleasant pastime?

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Or, similarly, photos of the crafts I had the pleasure of enjoying, mostly made out of recycled materials? These are items that allow people to connect with their creativity, bring some brightness to their days. To me, the gardens and crafts are signs of the strength of the human spirit.

On the day we handed out tickets, I told a lady how gorgeous her bracelet was. Sure enough, the day we handed out chickens, she had made one special for me, God bless her soul.

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I so appreciate all the people who donate, who show up to load the trucks, Yolanda Medina who started all this, her family and friends who work hard for months (most of the year, actually) to make this all possible.

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The best part is handing things out, seeing the worry on people’s faces transform into joy, as they receive their chicken, items of clothing, a toy, even a piece of candy.

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Group members who hung out till the very end

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While in 2010 we ran out of chickens and had to go on a shopping spree, this year we actually had a surplus and were able to stop by Ciudad de los Niños on the way home, to share chickens, despensas, clothes, toys and candy with them.

If you are in Mazatlán next year, I do hope you’ll join us! While this post is mainly about our efforts on December 24th, there are many ways to help.

  • The primary fundraiser is a breakfast held two to three weeks before—in late November or early December. That event requires help with ticket sales; donations of food, tables, chairs, coffee pots; logistics; set up, waiting tables and clean up; as well as people to collect raffle prizes, silent auction items, and make goods to be sold at the bazaar.
  • The despensas need to get calculated, funded, ordered and portioned out in the days and week before the 24th.
  • Clothes needs to be collected and sorted along with toys and candy.

Any one person can make a huge difference. In 2007 when we started, we came as three people just wanting to do what we could. This year, we brought 17 other people (and TWO much-needed trucks) with us — some newbies, some on their second or third year. All of them will come again and bring some new people with them. Together this can grow and help even more families. Thank you to everyone who helped or joined in this year!

What Do Mexican Nativity Sets Have That Mine Doesn’t Have?

my nativityGrowing up in Wisconsin, our nativity set looked a lot like the one at left.

In Mazatlán, most of the nativities (nacimientos) do include these basic items that I grew up with — Mary and Joseph, the baby Jesus, shepherd and sheep, 3 kings, a camel, a donkey, an angel. But they also include a WHOLE lot more!

Here, nativities always seem to have turkeys. Why? Because we eat pavo on Christmas? Mazatleco nacimientos also seem to always have chickens.

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And a well. Almost every Mazatleco nativity we’ve seen has a well. Again, why? Because Jesus asked a lady for water at a well, like, 30 years AFTER he was born? The wells are pretty. People did need to drink.

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The nativities I grew up with had pine trees. I always thought that was a little weird. As a kid I imagined that where Jesus lived, maybe palm trees would have grown, but pine trees? Well, Mazatleco nativities have cacti. Lots of different kinds of cacti.

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The shepherds in Mazatlecan nativities often wear sombreros. And they may carry tropical fruits. Or beans. Traditional Christmas foods. They may be miners. Or carry really heavy loads.

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Mary and Jesus may have a comal alongside the manger, for cooking fresh tortillas for all those visiting kings.comal

There are usually a lot of tropical birds in a Mazatleco nativity, and often times a waterfall or water feature. We do live on the ocean, after all. And we are blessed with loads of gorgeous water fowl.

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A nativity here might not be complete without a burro carrying beer, or a lady handing out avocados. Christmas is a cause for getting together with family and friends and celebrating, that’s for sure.

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There are often barnyard animals in a nativity here, including cows, pigs, and geese.

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And, usually, the nativity includes a devil. Sometimes one, sometimes quite a few. The nativities I grew up with included lots of angels, but never, ever a devil.

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Nativity sets here grow so large, over several generations, that many of them become small cities filled with people doing all sorts of different things. Nacimientos are yet another reason to LOVE Mazatlán! 😉

Could You Cook Your Holiday Dinner Here?

foodWe recently had the very good pleasure of traveling to our friend’s hometown, San Ignacio, Sinaloa. It’s just over an hour from Mazatlán. On the way we stopped for one of the best breakfasts I’ve had in a long, long time. The meal was at Cuata’s, just south of San Ignacio. I had stewed ribs with nopales, and Greg had carne asada/grilled beef. It was accompanied by the most marvelous queso fresco — panela cheese, and the mooooooosssst glorious homemade blue corn tortillas ever!

Now, surely this wonderful meal, made with items from a stew pot, griddle, and grill, came out of a well stocked and well staffed kitchen. Indeed it did, though it was a kitchen that many chefs might find challenging to work in. More power to the cook! Cuata’s kitchen, without gas, electricity or running fresh water, was a Christmas reminder to me that sometimes simple is best!

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To keep Cuata company as she cooks, there are several pet pericos.

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Heartiest of heartfelt holiday wishes to all our readers. I am grateful for good friends, beloved family, open-air awesome restaurants like Cuata’s, the good health to be able to enjoy food like she serves, and the ability to share a bit of our lives with you. Thank you for being here with us!

Entrega de los Pollos/Handing out Chickens — Where/What Time

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Quince Letras, corner of Tampico and Francisco Villas streets
We load from either side of this “Coca Cola” store on the corner

Many, many thanks to all of you who attended the Desayuno de los Pollos/Breakfast of the Chickens earlier this month, who have donated money, collected clothing and toys, and who have worked hard this week packing up rice, beans, coffee, tomatoe paste, pasta, etc. Your kindness and efforts will help improve the lives of over 2000 families in Mazatlán who are less economically fortunate than ourselves.

I was over at Yolanda’s today, and they need a few more pickup trucks or even larger trucks to help us haul the frozen whole chickens. Please, if you have access to a truck and are willing to drive it on December 24th, would you contact Jorge Medina on his cell at 669-110-07-44 and let him know? Thank you! Please pass this request on to anyone you know with a truck. All who are driving: please have your trucks at Quince Letras downtown by 6:30 am on the 24th, latest by 7:00 am.

Several of you have asked us what time to show up on the morning of December 24th in order to help load the trucks and deliver the goodies out to the colonias. Those who have worked in the past and know the drill, please plan to show up about 6:30 am. Those of you who are first-timers, coming by about 7:00 am will put you there just in time to help us load. We make lines of people to pass the foodstuffs/despensas into the truck, and able-bodied guys load the boxes of frozen chickens.

That morning, please bring any additional used clothing in good condition that you have assembled (it’s best to take clothing over to Yolanda’s for sorting before that morning, if possible), any candy or toys you have for the kids. Donations that morning will also be welcome, as Yolanda has signed for some of the food on credit/faith.

DATE: December 24th

TIME: 6:30 am if you are driving a truck, 7:00 am if you are helping us load and deliver

LOCATION: 15 (QUINCE) LETRAS, corner of Francisco Villa and Tampico, just down the hill from the Church of Cristo Rey (Christ the King)

  1. Turn East at the Fisherman’s Monument.
  2. Go to the first light and turn right.
  3. Proceed one block and turn left (Francisco Villa street, just before the Pemex station).
  4. Go two blocks.
  5. If you are NOT driving a truck or transporting supplies, please park in the next block. This will give us room for loading. Once you’ve parked, walk another block down, past the iron works business called “Quince Letras.” On the corner of Francisco Villa and Tampico you will see a small store with a bright red “Coca Cola” hand painted on the outside, across from a tortillería. A door next to the Cocheras Automaticas business will be open. That’s Yolanda’s mother’s house, and it’s from there that we’ll be loading.
  6. If you ARE driving a truck or transporting supplies, please drive up to Tampico street (the “Coca Cola” store on your right on the corner), turn right, and park. We will be loading right there.

IMG_0669If you can’t find it, just ask someone for “Quince Letras” or “Desayuno de los Pollos/Medina family.” Everyone in the area will know. It is just down the hill from the Cristo Rey Church (photo at left).